The Roof aka The Corner 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | joe cote and (summer 1972), FFA: Henry Barber and B. Gierke (fall 1972) |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Jul 25, 2011 |
| |
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Description Though often wet I highly recommend it if you find it dry. I was quite pleasantly surprised at the quality of the climbing since I've never heard much good said about it.
Here are the pros:
Great movement
Well protected
Conveniently located
Never crowded
Cons:
Often wet
Not as clean as They Died Laughing
A loose block or two
So you can make your own call. Your mission, should you choose to except it, begins in the corner capped by a roof, to the left of the popular section of the North End.
Climb moderate moves up the corner until you can gain cracks and jugs on the right wall. Climb these wonderful features to the right end of the roof over your head. Continue up the corner above for another 10-15 feet to a nice ledge.
You can belay/rap from here via a sling on tree anchor, or continue (straight up or up and right) to a two-bolt anchor above. Several nice pitches can be accessed from there.
Location Corner capped by a big roof on the left side of the North End.
Protection Regular Rack.
Fixed rap station on tree.
| Comments on The Roof aka The Corner |
|
By chinos
Aug 15, 2011
| I believe this is called The Roof. someone posted it under the diedre area. just a heads up to avoid confusion.
If it is the same route you can continue up the corner after the roof to a massive ledge with an anchor. Hurley added a second pitch Raising the Roof that climbs past a few bolts in a corner and finishes with gear in horizontals to a bolt anchor also 5.9 |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 15, 2011
| Ed Webster's book calls it "the Roof" and Jerry Handren's calls it "the Corner" i call it both...
neither seem right to me since it goes around the roof and only spends a short time in the corner haha...
but it sounds like our mighty administrator might want to choose one or combine the descriptions and decide which area it belongs in... we could call it The Roof aka (The Corner) so owners of both guidebooks know whats going on... |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 15, 2011
| I always thought of this as more of a North End route. In fact, I think the Possessed could also be considered part of the North End. Lee, do you want to rewrite this to include "The Roof" info? I'll delete the other route submission...that is, unless anyone else objects and/or disagrees. |
By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 16, 2011
| For sure a North End route and i think the Diedre area starts with Diedre. |
By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Aug 16, 2011
| This is North End. I would also refer to 'The Possessed' and even 'Jack the Ripper' as North End routes. When you can have a conversation with a neighboring climber on 'They Died Laughing' with an inside voice, seems like they would have to be in the same area.. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 17, 2011
| im on it Jay! |
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