The Rodeo 5.12+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12+ [details] |
| FA: | D. Montgomery & K. McIlrath, 12-4-10 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Monty on Dec 5, 2010 |
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At the steep crux on the FA.
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Road & nearby private property MORE INFO >>>
Please do your best to maintain good relationships with the people who own the land in this area. Do not drive your vehicle past the "private property" sign. Do not go up to the house to ask for directions to the crag. Do not ride your bike down the road. Please move immediately to the side of the road if any landowners are approaching in their vehicles.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Shoot-Dang-Man, put on your favorite belt buckle and hold on tight, this here be a bucker! This pitch will test your technique, and then fry your power at the top. Excellent rock with great climbing, make this thing a true classic. Yee-haw!
Begin with jugs up to a bulge. Balance and finesse your way over the bulge and up steep, thin slab. As the route gets steeper, the holds get better, but further apart. The crux comes at the steepest part of the black streak involving big moves with smeary feet. Everything up to this point is very sustained. A few more hard moves deposit you at a rest before fun 5.10 climbing to the anchor.
Location Climbs the black streak located in between the Slippery Nipple and Not Even on the right side of the Quarry Wall.
Protection One hand-sized cam and 9 bolts + anchor.
All bolts were drilled on lead.
By Pinklebear
Dec 5, 2010
| Nice one, Dave! I remember looking at that black streak in June, wondering why there wasn't a route there yet. Good eye! |
By Monty
From: Morrison, Co
Dec 5, 2010
| Thanks, Matt.
I just wanted to give Kirsten a HUGE thanks for her patient belays while I bolted and sent this route. It took 2 full days of effort to bolt this line, and 1 day to actually send the route. I couldn't have done this with out her.
If your a fan of technical climbing, this route is not to be missed! |
By Pinklebear
Dec 5, 2010
| Psyched, can't wait to try it: Nice work to both of you! Behind every great ascent is an even greater belayer. |
By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Dec 6, 2010
| Great job, Dave,
We played on this last year and looked forward to coming back for the lead. Glad you beat us to it! Kinda.
The middle section was pretty techy, musta been an exciting lead drilling it up.
Congrats! |
By mike sheridan
From: Golden
Dec 8, 2010
| Dave,
This route is super streamline. One of my favorites at the ridge. |
By Kevin McLaughlin
From: Colorado Springs
Mar 20, 2011
| Top notch addition to The Ridge. |
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