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BETA PHOTO: Near the top of the Rodent.
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The Rodent chases 5 bolts up the left wall of the big open book. The arete on the left of the face provides some good holds from which to transition to the right onto the face. This transition is the crux. Once on the face, a nice crack leads up to a small ledge which is a couple of moves from the anchor. We did not encounter any rodents.
The route climbs the left wall of an open book about 50 feet right of Big Loose Goose
and 20 feet right of a short, unknown route up an arete with 3 bolts. The route begins on a 4' high pedestal from which the first bolt can be reached.
5 bolts. Two bolt anchor at the top.
The Rodent- a fun bolted line up the arete on the ...
By TJ Quirk
From: Parker, CO
Mar 14, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last climb of the day, so I top-roped The Rodent. I agree that the crux is getting off the arete to the face. The holds are well chalked, but quick and accurate (deadpoint) placement is the required skill.
To get to the anchors, I took the trad line up the crack in the corner to the right of The Rodent. That line is like 5.7-5.8 ?