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Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)
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The Roadrunner 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, November 1995
Page Views: 539
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on May 10, 2003

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Moving through the crimpy lower section.
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Description 

This excellent B. G. route begins on a face just below a left arching seam to the right of "More Funky Than Junky" (5.10a). Difficult moves past a bolt gain the seam. Continue up the seam and face with very technical moves past three more bolts, a fixed pin, and supplemental gear.


Protection 

4 bolts, one fixed piton, TCU's from #0 - #3, and small stoppers or brass provide excellent protection. Sport anchor on top to rappel from.



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Some pulling still required near the top. <br />Photo by Valarie Heredia
Some pulling still required near the top.
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By Randy
May 12, 2003

Though the first 10 feet are a little loose, the rest of the climb sports good patina. Very continuous climbing for first 30 feet of so. Well worth doing. 3 of 5 stars.

By Murf
Oct 1, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Beginning is loose and the fact you need to move so far right detracts, tricky crux.

By Choncho
Jul 25, 2010

Not sure how moving 2ft right on one move detracts from the route.