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Moving through the crimpy lower section.
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This excellent B. G. route begins on a face just below a left arching seam to the right of "More Funky Than Junky" (5.10a). Difficult moves past a bolt gain the seam. Continue up the seam and face with very technical moves past three more bolts, a fixed pin, and supplemental gear.
4 bolts, one fixed piton, TCU's from #0 - #3, and small stoppers or brass provide excellent protection. Sport anchor on top to rappel from.
Some pulling still required near the top.
May 12, 2003
Though the first 10 feet are a little loose, the rest of the climb sports good patina. Very continuous climbing for first 30 feet of so. Well worth doing. 3 of 5 stars.
Oct 1, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Beginning is loose and the fact you need to move so far right detracts, tricky crux.
Jul 25, 2010
Not sure how moving 2ft right on one move detracts from the route.