The Roaches Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Roaches Overview Map
Ironically some of the best grit is nowhere near Sheffield.
This BIG gritstone crag runs for miles, with a shorter Lower Tier, and a much longer Upper Tier. This is where Joe and Don first met on the rock and boasts such classics as Black and Tans, Valkyrie
, Saul's Crack
, The Sloth
, plus many more. There's much scary hardness here too.
The pro is natural, cams and wires are particularly useful, as are double ropes; a lot of the harder routes use cracks either side for pro.
The something for everybody here - jam cracks abound, roofs , steep walls, slabs - you name it - there's also some good boulders at the base.
Be an expert with natural pro, and natural belay anchors as there are no bolts here.
The nearest town is Leek, from there go north-east on the A53 towards Buxton. Turn off left at Upper Hulme. Soon pass the right turnoff for "Ye Olde Rock" a recommended pub, then down past buildings to the open road which runs along the side of the moors, you'll first see Hen Cloud, and then the big long pull out for The Roaches.
The "Staffordshire Nose"
A brutal challenge, all in the name of fun of course, is to climb all 31 of the Brown & Whillans routes at the Roaches (plus Hen Cloud and Ramshaw), in a day. Many of the Routes are notorious sandbags, most are crack climbs, and none are to be taken lightly! If you think you're up to it, you can find the complete list of routes as a UKC ticklist
The speed record currently (July 2014) stands at 5 hours, 54 minutes, set on a rainy November day by Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker.
Climbing Season For the The Peak District area.
Weather station 2.2 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Roaches
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Roaches
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Roaches:
Featured Route For The Roaches
The Sloth (HVS 5a) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
: United Kingdom
: ... : Upper Tier
After the first ascent when asked by a dumbfounded bystander how he did it Don Whillans replied with; "it's OK if you use yer loaf." Leaving the bystander wondering if Don had actually used his loaf (head) as a climbing technique.This is one of the great grit roofs, and, I think, the first to be climbed. Another total classic - but pretty gripping!1) 80ft 5.9. Up the left side of the Pedestal to it's top and a ledge, now a tricky wall 'till beneath the roof, sling over The Cheeseblock....[more] Browse More Classics in International
It's sunny, it's dry, it's grit - what more could ...
Gates that enter into the Lower Tier
Roaches Upper Tier - Bouldering, Marc Chrysanthou.