The Right Way 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 55 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | T. Bubb & Steve (???) 8/29/06 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Any |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Aug 30, 2006 |
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Description This climb shares 1/2 of its length with "Right Line" yet is quite different. You see, it doesn't clip any of the bolts....
Climb the lower 1/2 of the closely bolted "Right Line" on perfectly good gear placements, from medium stoppers and small cams or up to 2" (Starting pro was a green Camalot and was bomber.) At the ledge with the tree after the 3rd bolt, step up and right to a natural corner and crack and finish the pitch on 2.5-3.5" cams. Continue to a belay on tree or go down and left on a ledge to the anchors above Right Line.
Location Starts as for Right Line, but instead of cutting left through the tree, it finishes up the trad line above & right of the tree.
Protection Medium stoppers, a few small cams, a green Camalot or equivalent and a few 3" +/- cams will sew it up.
| Comments on The Right Way |
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By Ryan Stefani
Apr 22, 2012
| I thought this was the most fun climb in this lower section. The dihedral is FAR cleaner that one would expect. If you start below the dihedral to the right-ish (the obvious line all the way up), be VERY careful on the flake to the climber's right before you get to the ledge. It's about 5-6' tall and about 4' deep at the top, and it almost came completely out when I pulled on it at the very top. Be careful with that one as the climbing is easy on solid rock to that point.
Note: this whole bottom section is rated pretty soft. |
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