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The Right Way 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: T. Bubb & Steve (???) 8/29/06
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 482
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 30, 2006
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Description 

This climb shares 1/2 of its length with "Right Line" yet is quite different. You see, it doesn't clip any of the bolts....

Climb the lower 1/2 of the closely bolted "Right Line" on perfectly good gear placements, from medium stoppers and small cams or up to 2" (Starting pro was a green Camalot and was bomber.) At the ledge with the tree after the 3rd bolt, step up and right to a natural corner and crack and finish the pitch on 2.5-3.5" cams. Continue to a belay on tree or go down and left on a ledge to the anchors above Right Line.


Location 

Starts as for Right Line, but instead of cutting left through the tree, it finishes up the trad line above & right of the tree.


Protection 

Medium stoppers, a few small cams, a green Camalot or equivalent and a few 3" +/- cams will sew it up.



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By Ryan Stefani
Apr 22, 2012

I thought this was the most fun climb in this lower section. The dihedral is FAR cleaner that one would expect. If you start below the dihedral to the right-ish (the obvious line all the way up), be VERY careful on the flake to the climber's right before you get to the ledge. It's about 5-6' tall and about 4' deep at the top, and it almost came completely out when I pulled on it at the very top. Be careful with that one as the climbing is easy on solid rock to that point.

Note: this whole bottom section is rated pretty soft.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Aug 1, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This route is fun! It's true that you can place gear instead of clipping the bolts on Right Line, but you might as well clip the bolts unless you really enjoy placing gear.