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Cleavage Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bat Crack T 
Cleavage, The TR 
Highstep Face Traverse TR 
Left Side of the North Face on the North Rock TR 
Middle Right Side of the North Face on the North Ro, The T,TR 
Right Side Arete on the North Face of the North Roc, The TR 
Shoelace Joe TR 
West face of Northwest Rock Face TR 
West face of Northwest Rock Roof Problem TR 

The Right Side Arete on the North Face of the North Roc 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 957
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Sep 1, 2002

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Description 

This route starts on the bottom of the Northernmost rock, just around the corner from The Cleavage (5.4), which chimneys the obvious crack on the west side of this rock.

This is quite downhill from many other routes on the rock, which is why this route is so much longer (at 40') than the next climb to the left, which is about 25 feet.

Climb the face using the arete when necessary to the top anchors.

There's an altnernate start that begins on the overhanging arete, which goes at about a 5.10b.

Protection 

Setting up a toprope on the 3 bolt top anchor requires a long sling (10'), and you must climb the Cote Memorial Wall (5.3) route (or another) to reach the bolts.


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