The Right Dangler
||Ice, 1 pitch, 40', Grade II
|Consensus: ||WI5- [details]|
|FA: ||Trevor Bowman & Levi Van Buggenum 2/10/08|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||After heavy snow followed by melt/freeze temps.|
|Page Views: ||336|
|Submitted By: ||Trevor Bowman on Feb 12, 2008|
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Trevor starting up the FA.
Short, steep, and slender--this is an aesthetic little pillar when it's in good knack. Unfortunately, it very rarely forms up fully and requires just the right combination of conditions to come in. It is the right-hand of two hanging daggers that spill over a steep alcove. Since they don't have a consistent water source and they get sun all day, they are very ephemeral formations that come and go many times throughout a season. It seems that the right-hand one is generally fatter, although this isn't always true. It's generally the case that one or the other has a decent amount of ice while its neighbor is lacking. However, it's also common to see very little ice on either. It seems that the best setup for them is to have some heavy snows followed by a stretch of good days just below freezing and cold nights. All in all, these are quite fickle flows that are rare treats.
Only the right-hand flow has seen an ascent. Neither have been climbed in their typical partially formed conditions, although both will provide great mixed climbs.
On the conditions of the first ascent, the pillar was very wet and buttery, making for good climbing but worthless screw placements. However, it was quite warm that day and would certainly offer better pro in colder temps. The ice doesn't quite top out the cliff, and the last bit is almost always very thin and poorly bonded, so bolt anchors have been added below the lip.
The route is across the canyon from Highway 14 a mile or so up-canyon from Post Creek. The amphitheater with the Danglers will be very visible from the road. The lower pitch isn't visible, but sits down the gully about 100' from the hangers.
The best approach is to come from above. Follow the approach directions for Wildfire Slabs and Ponderosa Falls. The Danglers are about 1/2 way between these two routes. There is a large juniper directly above the Right Dangler, from which you can rap down to the bolt anchors. It's a circuitous approach, but it avoids the heinous pricker-brush gully of the more direct approach.
A few full-length screws, bolt anchors.
The pillar from the highway, across the canyon. It...
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Feb 12, 2008
I was very surprised to come around the corner on the road and see this thing touching down and looking solid. I've climbed sporadically in the canyon over the last 5 winters and never seen it close to formed up, and doubted that it really ever did connect. It was a pretty cool to finally get after it!