|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Paul Rezucha on Oct 9, 2005|
|Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on The Right Cheek||Add Comment|
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By Brad Allender
From: Alameda, CA
Oct 14, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
|I found this climb a little less rewarding than paul did, although it was a fun challenge to ignore every hold that looked good (case in point, the 2 really nice underclings just above me on the first picture of me taken by paul, don't touch em, they flex a half inch with the slightest pull). A note to belayers, wear a helmet and sunglasses, the debris falling off is pretty bad, and mostly small stuff and dust that winds up in you eyes with the larger piece mixed in to smack you in the head. Actually, I would probably not recommend you do this climb at all if pressed.|
By Bo Johnston
Oct 27, 2005
|I was up exploring in this area (Pine Canyon BTW) and ran into this route also. I'd never seen it before and it looks very new. When hiking into Pine Canyon it can be found when you hit a wash that crosses the stage road just abeam the large caved and nested crag (which I think we used to call Barney Rubble or Bam Bam, some Flinstone name, it's in the old Climbing Bay Area Book). This bolted route is on a western face just left of the big crag and can be reached by walking up a good trail along side Barney Rubble. (Which BTW, I found a stupid looking new bolt line on it's lower left slabby section. Look for it... I could see about 4 bolts but couldn't make out an anchor or how it finishes.) Needless to say, it sucked being up there alone and not getting to try these new routes out. Thanks for posting this new one though. Maybe we should just give it a name???|
From: Vacaville Ca.
Mar 15, 2006
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ok I admit its a choss ball. I was hoping it would clean up a bit more than it did. The buckets were too enticing to pass up. I got all obsessed with leading it. Hopefully it will clean up nicely like some of the other climbs in the canyon. Personally I don't think its that bad. Anyway, I put that route up in 04. I wanted something lower down the canyon to climb on short days. I named the route "The Right Cheek" for obvious reasons. I put the anchors at the top of the Dingleberry crack also. I lead it one day and had to anchor myself to a bush to bring up the second....not cool.
The short bolt line down the hill on the arete that was previously mentioned as "stupid looking bolt line" is the start to a route called Raptors nest. Don't be confused, its no sport route. Its actually three bolts protecting the short steep section then run out to a short crack (takes small pro) along the arete to another short run out section up to a bolt. From here you head left into the caves and chimney and build your own anchor. Climb up the chimney (wide gear) to the top of the route. A short (.10a) bolt line (Escape route)will lead you to the actual top of the rock if you wish, or you can make a short rap down the back side to the ground. I put this route up "on lead" in 04 as well. I only placed bolts where they need to be and where I could get them in. Its not dangerously run out to sabbotage following parties. Its just how it went down. Its a bit of a slippery route, lots of lichen and such. Don't climb during raptor season either. Its not called Raptors Nest for nothing. All in all, its not a bad route. It just takes a few pieces of wide gear and a couple big balls.