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 ADVANCED
Little Wing Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Andy Devine T 
He Can't Shout, Don't Hear You T 
Honor thy Father T 
L.D. Getaway T 
Leisure Time T 
Little Wing T 
Riddler, The T 
Scuz Ball T 
Squeeze-n-Tease T 

The Riddler 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bruce Pollock, Matt Pollock, Mark Chapman, and Charlie Porter (Jan '74)
Page Views: 651
Submitted By: Sirius on Oct 12, 2007

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The line of the Riddler can't be missed from the base of Little Wing: a wild, curled flake bends and overlaps the cliff face, creating a striking flared chimney that rises 80 ft to top out on a flat ledge. Gain this intimidating feature after 15 ft of steep and protected face climbing to find good protection and sound jams in the back of the chimney. Fight your way up to a bolted anchor with rap rings on top.

This climb can either be a grunter or a silky smooth ascent, depending on your technique. Either way, it's an excellent and safe opportunity to gain experience with that classic Yosemite genre: the chimney/squeeze.

Location 

Traverse right along the base of Little Wing cliff; eventually you'll emerge onto a small, semi-exposed platform at the far right (east) end of the cliff. Honor Thy Father, Leisure Time, The Riddler, and Little Wing all begin from this platform. The Riddler starts up steep, bouldery moves and enters the obvious chimney feature.

Protection 

Small to 3". In spite of its wide aspect, this climb protects very well.


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