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Triumverate Wall
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The Rib 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
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Page Views: 3,168
Submitted By: NEGuiding on Apr 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Route From Belay S. #1

Description 

Excellent first lead and one of the more popular low grade routes at the Gap. Start at the right end of the raised platform of rock at a tree.

Pitch 1: Step right and follow a crack up th ecenter of a fairly low-angle face to a tree belay.
Pitch 2: Continue up the face to the rim. Double-rope rappel from tree.


Location 

Far right on Triumverate Wall


Protection 

Small nuts for start and large nuts, small to medium cams and some medium hexes for the rest of the route.



Photos of The Rib Slideshow Add Photo
Rib Route
Rib Route
Base of the rib
Base of the rib
Solo climbing the Rib
Solo climbing the Rib
shot of Eddie coming up the top half of the first pitch below belay.
shot of Eddie coming up the top half of the first ...
Looking up from the base of the rib
Looking up from the base of the rib
The Rib
The Rib
Belay station #1
Belay station #1
Side view of 'The Rib', upper corner
BETA PHOTO: Side view of 'The Rib', upper corner
Tim starting up 2nd pitch from belay ledge
Tim starting up 2nd pitch from belay ledge
Howie following up shorter 2nd pitch
Howie following up shorter 2nd pitch
Jonah first ascension  of 2014 season
Jonah first ascension of 2014 season
Comments on The Rib Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 18, 2014
By Rob Alexander
From: Alta
Apr 28, 2009
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

easy enough and faster to do as 1 picth... i would not trust tree at end of p1. big bro #1 is bomber in huge horizontal crack 20 ft from top.

By NEGuiding
From: Matawan, NJ
Aug 18, 2009

I never tried it as one pitch, good idea. The trees and rodos are not to be trusted based on personal experience. As for the 5.4 rating, according to YDS it's a 5.3, especially considering the angle and the ENORMOUS jugs.

By Josh Smethers
From: Malvern, pa
Oct 10, 2011
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13

Great warm up climb or first climb if you have never been to the DWG. Looking forward to the Rib Cage variation next trip. Definite two rope repel.

By Josh Smethers
From: Malvern, pa
Apr 17, 2012
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13

Rib Cage Var. felt more exposed then the standard rib- was 5.6 according to the guide. Different/awkward movement, which made the variation exciting and a fun change up. Interesting movement to gain the Rib Cage. Hand size gear especially (2)#3 BD cams for the large horizontal crack.

By Larry S
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

There are bolted rap anchors at the midpoint belay and the very top. If you do it in one pitch a 60m just makes it. I'm not sure if you can rap this with one rope (we had a fixed rap line on Triumverate), it may involve some 5.easy downclimbing.

By Larry S
May 5, 2013
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

A single 70 m rope gets you down this in two raps. From the med anchors, rap climbers left to land on the raised platform above triumverate. A 60m will probably get you within a couple feet of the ledge if you're careful.

By gtluke
Oct 28, 2013

You start this route nearer the trail level, don't go up onto the ledge where Triumvirate starts.

60 Meter rope raps don't REALLY make it from the bolted rap station on P1, it's really really close, maybe with some rope stretch, just be CAREFUL. 70's will definitely make it to the bottom from P1

By Larry S
Oct 29, 2013
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

if you rap climbers left off the ledge with the bolts, you'll make it with a 60 to the raised platform above the trail... at least my 60 makes in no problem. If you rap up the way you climbed, you'll probably run out of rope and risk a bad swing. It's definitely not a good rap line, but I do like being able to get down w/o carrying a second rope.

By Jonah Klein
Dec 13, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13

Loved this route. It was 10 degrees and the east rising sun made it feel like 40. Did this route Solo lead climb with Wren Soloist. I am not a expert at rating but after the 1st belay station, the traverse left to get from under the overhang made this more difficult for me. As a solo climber i took it slow and did it in 4 pitches. I was surprised it was rated a 5.3. I will have to do some others here in the Gap solo. The protection all seemed a bit shaky for me, stone flaked at cams. I depended mostly on nuts in the far right crack.

The route i took
The route i took


Questionable anchoring
Questionable anchoring


hanging around
hanging around

By Larry S
Dec 18, 2013
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

Jonah - If you go up the face on P2, it's 5.easy (it's so leaned in it can be done without putting your hands on the rock) but the gear is more sparse. Sounds like the gear in the corner pulled you in.

By Jonah Klein
Mar 18, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13

Started 2014 with the return to DWG. Went fresh with the Rib again and did far left at the outskirt for more slab climb and the large crack. Made it more of a 5.6 and some fun moves. Great warm up for what was to come next. Got one of my 2 ropes on 2 rope repel caught so bailed on it, went to do a few other climbs, came back at the end of the day and ascended this climb with 10 to 20 foot run outs in about 20 minutes from ground up and back to the ground.

Straight up and to the left.
Straight up and to the left.

By Ian Colquhoun
From: Buttzville, New Jersey
3 days ago

We also went out leftish of the corner and up the crack in the middle, which I know made it slightly harder and much better than staying in the grassy chigger infested corner. This route was more fun with better moves than triumverate.