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 ADVANCED
Paradox Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afternoon Delight T 
Cause is the Cure, The S 
Paradox Lost S 
Paradox, The S 
Quandry S 
Reuben Hair Shift, The S 
Teaser S 

The Reuben Hair Shift 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 707
Submitted By: Almonzo on Jan 12, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Afternoon Delight follows the curve on the left, T...

Description 

This is the last bolted line on the upper half of Paradox Rock. It is on the face just to the right of Afternoon Delight's curving crack. The route offers some tricky and sustained face moves (read: pretty tough for a 5.8+) before gaining a big ledge below a small overhang. Getting up and over the roof is not terribly difficult, but provides some interesting moves. Rock quality is excellent and the bolts protects the climb well.

Protection 

10 bolts with chains.


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By Wes Turner
From: az
May 19, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

fun route but could prove to be tough for the novice .8 leader. sustained .8 down low(with some .8+) to a rest 3/4 of the way to airy moves up high. And it is a difficult read for a 5.8 climb. especially down low. quickdraws only
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
May 8, 2006
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I felt like 9- was more appropriate, but this is the type of climb that is difficult and scary for me. I also thought following the bolts over the overhang up top rather than going left was at least 10a, maybe 10b. Definately a good climb and extremely well protected.
By Jason Schrack
Feb 23, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Very hard for an 8+. Very well protected and extremely fun. I love the delicate moves this climb requires. Lots of technique, little strength. I felt the middle slabby section to the steep face before the ledge was at least 9+.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Heehee I'm actually old enough to remember The Partridge Family, it got to Brazil much later, like 77 or 78

(thanks JT for finding this)

retrojunk.com/details_commerci...

In Almonzo's defense, it was misspelled in the guidebook too (thanks for fixing it here).