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The Slab
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The Return of Dow 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c X

   
Type:  Trad, 13 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dow Jopp & L Paik?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 703
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Feb 22, 2002

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Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the longest roped climb in the area I've done. 13 pitches. 2300 ft of mostly very moderate climbing. It goes quickly since you don't use much pro, max was 5 pieces in a pitch. This starts at the nadir of the Slab and goes to the very top of the Slab.

Note, the X section is 5.6 X. The 5.9- bit is well-protected.

1st pitch is a wee bit run out. Fire up a 5.6 slab straight up. 1st piece of pro is about 180 ft up. 200ft to a belay. From here angle up to basically follow this contour on the Slab. There is a fair bit of 4th class slabbing here. 6th pitch involved a 100 ft 5.7 down climb as you cross onto a lower strata. The 8th pitch involves a 5.9- crux downclimb. 11th pitch you start going up as you approach the left end of the Slab. The 13th & final pitch is a 5.8 bit to the very top.

Downclimb this last bit to exit the climb.

An adventure of sorts.


Protection 

Standard rack to #4 Camalot. 200 ft rope!



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