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 ADVANCED
Reed's Pinnacle Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
11c Toprope Arete TR 
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 
Beyond Lunacy T 
Beyond the Fringe T 
Bong's Away Center T 
Bongs Away, Left T 
Chingando T 
Deer Route, The T 
Dr. Fun Time T 
Dream Easy T 
Ejesta T 
Flatus T 
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 
Iota, The T 
Lunatic Fringe T 
Olga's Trick T 
Phantom T 
Porter's Pout T 
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 
Remnant, Center, The T 
Remnant-Left Side, The T 
Remnant-Right Side, The T 
Rocket In My Pocket T 
Scrunchy-Mungy T 
Steppin' Out T 
Stone Groove T 

The Remnant-Right Side 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Wally Reed,Herb Swedlund, 1960.
Page Views: 1,693
Submitted By: Blitzo on Dec 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Top of the chimney.

Description 

Climb a squeeze chimney on the right side.

Protection 

Big Bros, maybe.


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By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Jan 8, 2008

This is the climb I warm up on if I show up to climb other offwidths at Reed's. Its the best one pitch 5.7 offwidth/squeeze I've climbed in Yosemite. The quality of rock is outstanding.

Protect this climb with four pieces: yellow alien, #3.5 friend, #4 friend, and #5 friend.

You will be happy as you move on to the other climbs in the area if you start with this gem. It may be the first climb put up by Wally Reed at Reed's! ???
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Jan 25, 2011

I placed two #6 camalots on the route, but a #5 and #6 would work just the same if you don't have doubles. Any gear smaller than that is probably just going to weigh you down. Clean and fun.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Dec 19, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

After the first 10-15 ft of chimneying you can place a #6 BD C4, which you can slide most of the rest of the way up the route. I left a #5 BD C4 at the entry to the squeeze, removed the #6 there and replaced it above the squeeze for more pushin'. A #4 BD C4 can be nice to protect the final moves exiting the squeeze and reaching the anchor.

Bring long slings for a good extension for setting up a TR. The same anchor works well for TRing The Remnant, Left, which is also a great climb.