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This route is easily identifiable as it is just left of the large orange stain on the wall. The start is protected by 1 bolt then takes small-to-medium-size gear, passing 1 more bolt at a small dihedral. Easy climbing from there will gain the anchors.
4th route on left from start of wall. Located between the routes "One Green Spot" (Orange stain) and "The Quick One".
2 bolts, medium nuts, small to 2" cams - chain anchors
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 22, 2006
This route protected well with medium nuts and a yellow link cam in a pod higher maybe 2" size.
I didn't find it any more difficult than the route directly left "The Quick One" which is rated .10-
Feb 9, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Gear to .5" worked well for me. In my opinion, this is the best climb on the left half (before Duh Bulge).
From: Casa do Cacete
Jan 14, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b
Gear at the second bulge is kind of fiddly down low. Stoppers just flop around and a cam small enough to go in the pinched front of the crack will tip out towards the back. You need to commit to getting a stance most of the way up the bulge to get a good piece. At that point, you're close to groundfall range so have an attentive belayer.