The Reign of Swain
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A thin and devious route that is probably a bit of a sandbag at 5.10d. Start left of the obvious chimney on the left side of the wall. There are two routes on this wall- this is the leftmost route. Follow the bolts up and left through a roof, clip a bolt and then make the run (20') to the anchors.
Leftmost route on the wall, open shut/clip in anchor.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 4, 2012
I thought this route was contrived and not much fun. The crux roof pull is the hardest (and least obvious) of three ways through the roof, but it is the only one that is safe.
If you're going to do this route, make sure you like credit card crimpers- thats the name of the game here.
From: Alameda, CA
Dec 29, 2013
I totally agree with Wilder. The roof can be done a few ways the obvious line straight up felt really hard at 10c (book rating) even 10d.
By Crystal Lie
Jan 9, 2015
Pretty fun climb to me, because I do love the crimps. After the roof it's an easy jug fest to the anchors. We came here because Sunny and Steep across the way was incredibly crowded--doing this in the shade was way nicer than waiting around in the sun.