The Red Slab Rock Climbing
Red Slab on a fine May day.
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The Red Slab is a lot bigger than it might appear. Nearly all of the routes are a full 85 ft in length. Something like ten years ago Alan Nelson, working with various partners, put in all the routes. Most of the routes are 5.10 with very spacy bolting. On some of these routes you can expect fewer than six clips in 85 ft of climbing. An excellent 5.12b exists as the wall's only test piece. Bring lots of mental cool and you can pick off about a dozen fine pitches on great stone. Best in the earlier hours (during warmer months) since it faces East by South-East.
Also, there are a few traditionally-protected, multi-pitch lines which lie just around the corner to the left.
Three miles up Clear Creek Canyon is a large and generous parking area on the South side of the road and just before the first bridge. The Red Slab is the large East facing formation across the road from the parking. Access the crag via a short scramble just at the bridge abuttment. This picks up a trail with a couple of decoy forks in it. Stay high to avoid tumbling into the creek. The trail will deposit you at the base of The Red Slab about in the middle.
Around the Corner to the left:
A. [, 8, 2p, gear.
B. The Corner
, 8+, 4p, 350', gear.
C. Fun 'n' Games
, 9-, 3p, 350', gear & bolt.
D. Slip It In
, 11 PG-13, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
E. 1976 Crack/chimney
, 8, 2p, gear.
F. Bumblies for Breakfast
, 10- PG-13, 1p, 85', bolts.
G. Vapor Trail
, 9 PG-13, 1p, 85', TR or bolts.
, 10, 1p, bolts.
I. Wicked Game
, 10+ PG-13, 1p, bolts.
J. Spring Fever
, 10+, 1p, bolts.
, 10, 1p, bolts.
L. Pink Slip
, 12, 1p, 80', TR or bolts.
ML. Slip and Slide
, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
N. Lounge Lizard
, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
O. MK '74
, 9+ R/X, 1p, 80', TR or funky gear & bolts.
P. Snakes for Snacks
, 10- PG-13, 1p, bolts.
Q. Rattle and Scream
, 10- PG-13, 1p, 60', bolts.
R. And Now for Something Completely Different or Back Scratcher
, 8 R or 9, 1p, TR or gear.
Weather station 3.3 miles from here
17 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Red Slab
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Red Slab
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Red Slab:
Trundelero 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch
Pink Slip 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For The Red Slab
Spring Fever 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b CO
: ... : The Red Slab
This is one of the first documented routes on the Red Slab, and dates to the beginning of the modern route development period in the canyon. It was originally led on gear, and it's highly probable the general line was climbed earlier with a few points of aid in the roof. Climb a short slab to a break across the right side of the roof. A bolt in the roof and another just over the lip protect the crux of turning the roof and liebacking a right-slanting seam. Easier climbing follows the break s...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Red Slab. Photo by Alan Prehmus.
By Zachary Markis
Apr 12, 2002
I love this crag! Is kind of easy to get lost on your way back to the car, but well worth it! Everything here is over-graded, however, pretty run out. A lot of side pulls and funky footwork. Great spot to climb during the week, after work.
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 4, 2006
Be careful on the short climb up to the trail from the bridge - it is short but an easy place to be complacent and fall...my partner put his rock shoes on.
Also, in addition to the rattlesnakes, we saw a black widow spider walking on the ground- red hourglass and all - at the base of Trundelero. We moved it far far away from the climbs, but be on the lookout.
I would also advise wearing a helmet while climbing AND belaying. There is still plenty of loose rock and I had to dodge a few today. Also some of the bolts are a tad bit spaced out so if you are climbing near your limit take care. See the comments for Rattle and Scream if you think that wearing a helmet at the base of a "sport" crag isn't cool.
A good crag, especially if you enjoy sidepull, balancy, 5.10+ slab work.
By Jonathan Stickel
From: Golden, CO
Dec 19, 2015
Though the crag faces mostly South, it is not good Dec.-Jan. as the sun is too low in the sky to clear the canyon wall and hit Red Slab. Also, the approach is quite dangerous when snowy.