The Red Slab is a lot bigger than it might appear. Nearly all of the routes are a full 85 ft in length. Something like ten years ago Alan Nelson, working with various partners, put in all the routes. Most of the routes are 5.10 with very spacy bolting. On some of these routes you can expect fewer than six clips in 85 ft of climbing. An excellent 5.12b exists as the wall's only test piece. Bring lots of mental cool and you can pick off about a dozen fine pitches on great stone. Best in the earlier hours (during warmer months) since it faces East by South-East.
Also, there are a few traditionally-protected, multi-pitch lines which lie just around the corner to the left.
Getting There
Three miles up Clear Creek Canyon is a large and generous parking area on the South side of the road and just before the first bridge. The Red Slab is the large East facing formation across the road from the parking. Access the crag via a short scramble just at the bridge abuttment. This picks up a trail with a couple of decoy forks in it. Stay high to avoid tumbling into the creek. The trail will deposit you at the base of The Red Slab about in the middle.
This is a great, continuous, 80' pitch that is not for the meek. It originally had five bolts (you do the math for the runouts), but an additional bolt at the bottom was added in the summer of 2001 to reduce the groundfall potential. This route was established in the old-school style: on-sight, from the ground, with the protection drilled from free stances. As such, it is too run-out for your typical sportclimb, but it's got big bolts that were drilled with a Hilti.Even though it's steep, it'...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
I love this crag! Is kind of easy to get lost on your way back to the car, but well worth it! Everything here is over-graded, however, pretty run out. A lot of side pulls and funky footwork. Great spot to climb during the week, after work.
Be careful on the short climb up to the trail from the bridge - it is short but an easy place to be complacent and fall...my partner put his rock shoes on.
Also, in addition to the rattlesnakes, we saw a black widow spider walking on the ground- red hourglass and all - at the base of Trundelero. We moved it far far away from the climbs, but be on the lookout.
I would also advise wearing a helmet while climbing AND belaying. There is still plenty of loose rock and I had to dodge a few today. Also some of the bolts are a tad bit spaced out so if you are climbing near your limit take care. See the comments for Rattle and Scream if you think that wearing a helmet at the base of a "sport" crag isn't cool.
A good crag, especially if you enjoy sidepull, balancy, 5.10+ slab work.