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Red Pillar Area
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Red Pillar, The T 

The Red Pillar 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Parks, Griffin 1979
Page Views: 829
Submitted By: outdooreric on Jun 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Starting up the route

Description 

This route has a 5 star rating in the old guide, but it didn't quite live up to the hype. Some loose and crumbly rock exists in the crack and it ends poorly. The middle of the climb has nice hand jams while the pillar is a fun feature to climb. Overall a route of average quality.

The first crux comes from getting off the ground and a second crux comes from leaving a stance and gaining the hand crack just after the roof traverse. Higher up there is a small crack on the left wall that accepts nuts and smaller cams.


Location 

The climb follows the left side of the namesake detached reddish pillar on the east side of the crag. The pillar is accessed by climbing to the arch and traversing left under the roof.


Protection 

Standard rack with a couple 3-4" cams to protect the roof traverse under the arch.



Photos of The Red Pillar Slideshow Add Photo
The Red Pillar
The Red Pillar
Shawn seconding the start of the Red Pillar.  Probably the crux of the route, IMO.
Shawn seconding the start of the Red Pillar. Prob...
Off rappel, pull your rope from here and it is smooth sailing. <br /> <br />Red Pillar is a great route that has a little bit of everything: Trad Weirdness, a roof, a traverse, hand jams, & route-finding... pretty much in that order too.
BETA PHOTO: Off rappel, pull your rope from here and it is smo...
Comments on The Red Pillar Add Comment
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By T. Page
From: Truckee, CA
Nov 7, 2010

Be careful of placing gear where the roof crack turns vertical. There was a #1 Camalot that got eaten that kept my #1 Link cam from the same fortune. The rope inevitably runs in the crack once you get above it, so a #3 under the roof and a #2 well above where the crack turns vertical seems like the best option.

Just my 2c. Have fun, it's a Great Climb!

By JGHarrison
From: Reno, NV
Apr 28, 2012

FYI, the perfect lieback pic up in the description is from the route called "perfect lieback" not the Red Pillar.

I had issues with getting the rope stuck on this, bring some webbing to leave on rap...If this thing ever gets retrobolted anchors...it seems to me that it would be better to put them on top of the pillar, instead of where they are at currently...just for rope drag issues.

By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Feb 2, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A good route with sustained movement but with questionable rock quality higher up on it. The anchor placement is absolutely puzzling to me. Very odd to have to make illogical abd sketchy moves w rope drag up to the anchor. Gear to 4".

By Laine
From: Reno, NV
Mar 25, 2013

The move off the pillar to the top is exciting. Anchor condition and placement leaves much to be desired. I had rope issues as well. Good overall.

By RDA
May 27, 2013

Just around the corner right of Red Pillar is "First Crux" a nice short 5.9 clean crack and layback.