|Red Pillar Area
This route has a 5 star rating in the old guide, but it didn't quite live up to the hype. Some loose and crumbly rock exists in the crack and it ends poorly. The middle of the climb has nice hand jams while the pillar is a fun feature to climb. Overall a route of average quality.
The first crux comes from getting off the ground and a second crux comes from leaving a stance and gaining the hand crack just after the roof traverse. Higher up there is a small crack on the left wall that accepts nuts and smaller cams.
The climb follows the left side of the namesake detached reddish pillar on the east side of the crag. The pillar is accessed by climbing to the arch and traversing left under the roof.
Standard rack with a couple 3-4" cams to protect the roof traverse under the arch.
The Red Pillar
Shawn seconding the start of the Red Pillar. Prob...
BETA PHOTO: Off rappel, pull your rope from here and it is smo...
|By T. Page|
From: Truckee, CA
Nov 7, 2010
Be careful of placing gear where the roof crack turns vertical. There was a #1 Camalot that got eaten that kept my #1 Link cam from the same fortune. The rope inevitably runs in the crack once you get above it, so a #3 under the roof and a #2 well above where the crack turns vertical seems like the best option.
Just my 2c. Have fun, it's a Great Climb!
From: Reno, NV
Apr 28, 2012
FYI, the perfect lieback pic up in the description is from the route called "perfect lieback" not the Red Pillar.
I had issues with getting the rope stuck on this, bring some webbing to leave on rap...If this thing ever gets retrobolted anchors...it seems to me that it would be better to put them on top of the pillar, instead of where they are at currently...just for rope drag issues.
|By Weston L|
From: Summerlin, NV
Feb 2, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
A good route with sustained movement but with questionable rock quality higher up on it. The anchor placement is absolutely puzzling to me. Very odd to have to make illogical abd sketchy moves w rope drag up to the anchor. Gear to 4".
From: Reno, NV
Mar 25, 2013
The move off the pillar to the top is exciting. Anchor condition and placement leaves much to be desired. I had rope issues as well. Good overall.
May 27, 2013
Just around the corner right of Red Pillar is "First Crux" a nice short 5.9 clean crack and layback.