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 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
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2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner 
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First Pinnacle SE Face 
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Now and Zen 
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Red Gully, The 
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane 
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) 
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Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] 
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South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) 
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Standard Inside East Face 
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West Bench Dihedral 
West Face (of T-Zero) 

The Red Gully 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ament and Dalke, early 60's?
Season: any
Page Views: 222
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 19, 2006
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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The crux of this route is not breaking off the holds...
    Reach the eye-bolt at the top of the West Bench, as accessed from any of the interior routes below it or from a scramble from the outer wall up to it. Set a belay here, and climb out and left for some distance passing a horizontal hand-crack, and proceeding inward past a fixed aluminum pin (with broken eyelets) and into a dark red, right-facing corner with trashy rock and a small ledge to stand on.
    Climb up this corner until it ends, then work up and left onto a slab and onto the summit, to an eye-bolt belay.
    If you are feeling frisky, from the top of the dihedral, you can continue directly upward through a bulge with a sloper, a few tiny edges and a small-downward pointing flake for holds. This felt like solid 5.10 and is certainly a dangerous fall potential- I did this on TR and my partner subsequently aborted a similar attempt, siting the noisy flake as his cause for that.

    The route has some OK moves, but as a lead it's a bomb- too much stress over bad rock. Maybe 1 star as a TR.


    Location 

    This route is on the upper half of the inside East-facing side of the West Wall of the amphitheatre. It climbs the trashy red dihedral that starts level with the top of the notch on the West Bench.


    Protection 

    A standard light rack- most of it won't be any good anyway.



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