A cliff composed of a series of dihedrals, this is a unique area with some difficult routes. The Red Corners offer a slightly different style of climbing compared to the rest of the canyon, most lines here are highly technical and difficult in nature. The routes here tend to climb dead vertical faces and lack the standard pocket pulling thug-fests you'll find everywhere else.
Climbing here falls in the range of .11b to .13a and requires 14 or less draws. A 60 meter rope will get you up and down. I've hiked to farther areas in American Fork, but this one is a bit of a hoof, pack light if you can, plan on 25-35 minutes.
Exposed in nature, The Red Cliffs face south and get sun for a majority of the day. I've been here during all four seasons, but the spring and fall are easily the best. Plan to go early if its hot.
Park .35 miles up from the flagpole at a large pullout on the left. Follow the road up canyon until the stream crosses under the road. Head left onto a small trail and walk back down canyon about 500 feet until the trail crosses a talus field. See individual crags from here for directions.
An optional approach exists if trees are down for crossing the stream. This appraoch drops you off near the Beer Can Alley crag. Park one pullout prior to the .35 pullout, walk down the embankment and cross a tree to the opposite side, walk back down canyon to the talus slope and follow individual crag directions from here.
Ridiculous stemming up a beautiful corner, if you lack technique- expect to get owned. Troublesome and involved, Book of Condolences requires precise movement up a hard, open dihedral. Smear, press, and edge your way up this technical route, and don't be surprised if you find yourself puckering... Difficult from beginning to end, the crux of this line sits high, so save some juice for the final moves. Well-bolted and well-protected, equipping the draws here, won't be your biggest issue....[more]Browse More Classics in UT