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The Real Thing 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,079
Submitted By: Glenn Burns on Aug 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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A lead of the Real Thing, May 1971. Notice the sho...


  • RCM&W #17, p.158


standard rack.

Photos of The Real Thing Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rich Swenson finds a rest.
Rich Swenson finds a rest.
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying to squeeze into the chimney
Trying to squeeze into the chimney

Comments on The Real Thing Add Comment
Show which comments
By TravisMelin
From: Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Nov 16, 2007

Harder than it looks, Kudos to andy may for cruising up it.
By Andrew May
From: Westminster, CO
Dec 28, 2007

That route sucked.
Thank you.
By Lspade
From: Maplewood, MN
May 10, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Out of all the routes I have ever climbed in my life this is my #1 most favorite (be it 500ft tall multipitch or insane boulder problems). How does this only have a 2 star rating!? It is possibly the shortest trad lead I have ever climbed but height shouldn't hinder this route's awesomeness.

The climb is basically a 5.5 route with a short and ridiculous 5.10 crux sitting on top of it. I placed two whole pieces of protection in the entire route. The crux is a battle of figuring out how to get your body into the chimney while using the nothingness below you.

It was super weird and I loved it!
By Lspade
From: Maplewood, MN
May 31, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I led it again and I feel that the 10a rating is a complete lie. The first time I led this route I assumed it was for sure in the 5.11 range and was surprised to find out that it was only a 5.10a. This route makes "The Bulge" (which is also 5.10a) feel like a walk in the park. Sand bagged rating for sure.
By Ryan Amundson
From: minneapolis, mn
Sep 24, 2013

I treated the top section as an offwidth crack. My right hand was on the face (small hold above the roof, big reach) and left in the little finger pocket outside to the chimney. Then I bring my left leg up into the chimney and jam it in to hold my body. Next I will move my left hand into the crack within the chimney itself. From there I will grit my teeth and pull up into the chimney and do a butt smear while bumping my body up to the top out. I am sure there is an easier way, but this makes it loads of fun (and may increase the rating).

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