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Though originally rated .11c, this route feels more difficult than any other 5.11c route at Enchanted Tower. Probably initially went at the above grade but due to the soft friable rock at the beginning of the route, all the pockets seem to have been eroded to feel like two finger slopers. After pulling the moves on the crux at the bottom, the grade eases of considerably once you hit the varnish covered stone higher on the route. If your flamed nearing the top, you can hit the giant hole to the left and gain an excellent knee bar and almost a no hands rest! Fun move to make even if you are not flamed.
May wish to stick clip the second bolt.
This route is one route to the right of Freddy Frog Prince Jr, on the west side of the Frog Prince formation. Around the corner and left of Gollum.
8 bolts to two bolt anchor.
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 7, 2007
FWIW, I always thought this was 11d. It was listed in some online guides (such as this one) at 11d before the big down-rate in Agee/Richard guide.
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Nov 7, 2007
Hey Mono, For what it's worth The Raven could be 5.11d. Also Guy was not in favor of the "big" down rating of routes at ET. I just felt that some were a little soft and down rated them. Most routes at the tower are not technically hard but take endurance. I would rather climb at an area where routes are not known as soft any way. Of course I could be wrong about the grade of the Raven. People can let us know with their input here. I don't think that a letter here or there really matters except to those trying to get up their first one. It is not like someone is going to die getting on one of these climbs. The Raven probably gets climbed a lot more now too. Thanks for your regular input here. Eric Rhicard
|By Gary Parker|
May 23, 2008
I liked this route because it was a different style for the Tower. Slopey for sure.
|By Alex McIntyre|
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 14, 2011
When I did this I believe there were about 2 or 3 hold on the entire route that didn't break in some way. Worst rock I have ever climbed on at the Tower, or anywhere for that matter.