The Raven 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Brian Pletta (?), Lance Hadfield, 1996 |
| Submitted By: | Anthony Stout on Nov 6, 2007 |
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Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Though originally rated .11c, this route feels more difficult than any other 5.11c route at Enchanted Tower. Probably initially went at the above grade but due to the soft friable rock at the beginning of the route, all the pockets seem to have been eroded to feel like two finger slopers. After pulling the moves on the crux at the bottom, the grade eases of considerably once you hit the varnish covered stone higher on the route. If your flamed nearing the top, you can hit the giant hole to the left and gain an excellent knee bar and almost a no hands rest! Fun move to make even if you are not flamed.
May wish to stick clip the second bolt.
Location This route is one route to the right of Freddy Frog Prince Jr, on the west side of the Frog Prince formation. Around the corner and left of Gollum.
Protection 8 bolts to two bolt anchor.
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 7, 2007
rating: 5.11d
| FWIW, I always thought this was 11d. It was listed in some online guides (such as this one) at 11d before the big down-rate in Agee/Richard guide. |
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 7, 2007
| Hey Mono, For what it's worth The Raven could be 5.11d. Also Guy was not in favor of the "big" down rating of routes at ET. I just felt that some were a little soft and down rated them. Most routes at the tower are not technically hard but take endurance. I would rather climb at an area where routes are not known as soft any way. Of course I could be wrong about the grade of the Raven. People can let us know with their input here. I don't think that a letter here or there really matters except to those trying to get up their first one. It is not like someone is going to die getting on one of these climbs. The Raven probably gets climbed a lot more now too. Thanks for your regular input here. Eric Rhicard |
By Gary Parker
May 23, 2008
rating: 5.11d
| I liked this route because it was a different style for the Tower. Slopey for sure. |
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 14, 2011
| When I did this I believe there were about 2 or 3 hold on the entire route that didn't break in some way. Worst rock I have ever climbed on at the Tower, or anywhere for that matter. |
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