Just left of the striking arete of Funkdemental, find a wide crack with three bolts. At the third bolt, pull left into a lieback crack. Place a long sling on the third bolt, and after clipping the fifth bolt, reach down and unclip the fourth to reduce rope drag. Launch into a few lieback moves then step right across a slab and gain a short crack in a shallow corner. Follow your nose past a headwall, and arrive at the anchors in short order. A long draw on the last bolt reduces rope drag for lowering off.
This is an excellent outing at the grade with fantastic movement and many no-hands rests.
I agree with the three star rating above - an excellent climb with a wide variety of moves. More unrefined folks will find some nice hand and fist jams in the initial flare before the traverse - but then you apparently miss out on one of the no-hands rests mentioned above. More sustained, and more difficult overall, than other 5.9+ climbs in the area. The Acme Hair-Split-O-Matic (TM) on my desk just spit out 5.10a, so I'll have to go with that.
Thanks for the info, Bob. Total Recall looks to have some fun arete climbing with great position. I'll have to give it a go the next time I'm down there.
By Brad Short From: Saudia Aurora, CO Nov 14, 2002
I must have missed the lower traverse left to the fourth bolt, as I went straight to the fifth bolt for my fourth clip. This probably made the route a little sporty, but it seemed to flow OK for me. I'll second Darin's Acme rating.
The route between the Raven and Crimson Candy seems to be now getting traffic. It is a killer route which has anchors placed (oddly) high above the shelf and to the left of Raven's. It appears to be in the 5.8/5.9 ballpark.
Why is the Raven getting a 5.9+? It really is only a 5.7 that is strenuous for the grade. Either way, a super route that needs a long runner before heading left at the 2nd bolt.
I bolted Raven solo. I rated Raven 5.9+ because: Many indoor climbers are addicted to this location, and climbers who have never climbed at location(s) like Turkey Rock could not likely flash a 5.8 trad route. Raven is RUN OUT in sections. If you place a few pieces of gear, Raven is easier than 5.9+.
By Larry Shaw Jul 17, 2004 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a