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The Rattle Horn

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The Rattle Horn  

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Location: 40.8055, -111.8686 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: bus driver on Sep 24, 2011
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This little snake came out to make sure I was sett...


The Rattle Horn is one of the biggest and highest cobblestone outcroppings in the canyon. The climbing is better and much steeper than it looks from the road. Star ratings for the climbs have been left to the public.

It is on the north (left) side of the road about a bit over a mile up City Creek Canyon. It is rarely visible through the tree canopy from below as you walk/ride/drive up the canyon in the summer but is very visible as you come back down the canyon around site #9.

The climbing is on mostly good rock with a variety of slabby, vertical, and overhung cobble climbing. It is fairly adventurous for sport climbing. All routes have an anchor at the top of the significant climbing and the option of continuing all the way to the top of the buttress via another route. The summit has a nice ledge and offfers pretty sweet views over Downtown and the Salt Lake Valley.

Watch for snakes on top. It seems to be a popular place for them to shed their skins. Rattlers have been seen and heard a few times in or near the cracks on the summit but none have ever behaved aggressively. Please respect them as they were here first.

Rappelling is recommended to avoid trail braiding off the summit. One 70 meter rope will take you from the summit all the way to the ground. People with shorter ropes can make two rappels to the ground. 12 quickdraws a couple slings and a rope should suffice for any given pitch. Some soft and loose rock on the second pitch adds to the excitement.

The ground is very unstable and endlessly loose if you try to go cross country. Stay on the path as described below to avoid erosion and slipping out.

This is a new crag. Beware of loose and falling rock. Helmets are recommended. Dogs are allowed.

Getting There 

From the gate at the mouth of City Creek Canyon, walk/ride your bike/drive about 1.2 miles up the canyon to site #8. Take the trail across from this site that turns back down canyon parallel to the road. Look up and see the crag up on your right. After a few hundred meters take a right into the gully that leads up to the rock.

As you approach the cliff take the little trail that leads left toward a little outcropping away from the base. DO NOT attempt to go along the base of the cliff as it is very soft and you will easily tear up the hillside. Go almost to the outcropping then find a faint switchback on the right that go back up to through the forest to the base of the cliff. Follow base until you arrive at some belay platforms. Wave of Imitation starts out on the ledge to climbers right and has a belay bolt at the bottom. Approach time from site #8 is about 15 minutes.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.0 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]

Featured Route For The Rattle Horn
not a very good photo but you can see the angle.

Black Tuesday 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Rattle Horn
Steep and sustained climbing with good holds. Fun route.You can extend the pitch and add a second pitch to the summit with more quickdraws and slings....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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The Rattle Horn
The Rattle Horn
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By bus driver
Dec 12, 2011
Anyone been up here yet?
Fun stuff.
By Leland McCarthy
From: Salt Lake, UT
May 30, 2013
The climbing is good. A bit chossy (seconding the helmet advisory). It seems though we picked a bad time as the snakes were not so pleased. One made it very well known we were not welcome as I was setting up an anchor. Which lead to my fastest rappel of all time.

Aside from that, the cobblestone makes for nice holds everywhere. Good warm up spot, good place to take a beginner. Be sure to put a knot in your ropes on this one.

Climb with caution, and mind your manners around the rattle snakes.
By bus driver
Jun 4, 2013
the horn rattled again. . .
By lange jeffries
Jun 28, 2013
There are some indian petroglyphs in the big overhang to the left of the climbs!
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