The Rasp 5.10d R
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Andy Donson, Ralph Burns |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Andy Donson on Aug 25, 2001 |
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BETA PHOTO: [This route] is on the triangular face on the righ...
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Description This route is on a couple of miles northeast of Notchtop. Approach as for Notchtop, but continue down to Odessa Lake. From the Odessa Lake outlet, look up (northwest) and see an obvious, flying buttress - this is the route. It's the same rock as Notchtop, so expect the odd creaky flake and spaced gear. It is very sunny, so dress lightly. 1) 5.9+ s, 190 feet. The left side of the buttress has 3 parallel grooves. Climb the left hand of these for about 100 feet, and then step right 10 feet and take another grove until a sloping stance is reached (tricky gear on this belay). 2) 5.8, 100 feet. Step 10 feet right and follow a shallow, left-facing dihedral (easier than it looks) to reach ledges. Continue up broken ground to a spacious ledge below the red summit tower. 3) 5.10d, 100 feet. On the left side of the red tower is a finger crack/seam, which leads to the left side of a small pinnacle. From atop this, climb a shallow, right-facing groove to a pumpy headwall (crux). Belay on the sloping ledge above. 4) 5.5, 120 feet. Continue up the crest of the buttress to the summit. Downclimb and spiral around the back into a casual gully on the left of the buttress. Hike out via Fern Lake, jump in "The Pool", and catch the shuttle bus from the Moraine Park trailhead back up to your car at Bear Lake for full aesthetic value.
Protection Standard rack.
BETA PHOTO: The route.
| Wes at the top of the headwall.
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By Dr. Thompson Jr. Jr. From: Estes Park, Colorado Sep 21, 2012
| Previously submitted under TROTGB: On [a presumed] FA, I followed the first pitch and trundled some stone, making it a fairly clean pitch. The second pitch could use some cleaning, especially on the edge of the largest ledge midway up the route. With a little more cleaning, this would be a pretty clean route in alpine standards. |
By Mitch Musci Sep 22, 2012
| Previously submitted under TROTGB: Andy, please check out the photo of our line and let us know if it is the same as yours. |
By Andy Donson Sep 23, 2012
| Previously submitted under TROTGB: I think it's essentially the same route. The starting groove and crux tower are definitely the same, but we may have taken different a line in the easier section between the two. |
By Dr. Thompson Jr. Jr. From: Estes Park, Colorado Sep 23, 2012
| Previously submitted under TROTGB: Andy, I will alter the FA and name status to set things right. Do you know of any other climbs in the area? Are you ok with 'The Rasp' being listed as part of the Gable? |
By Dr. Thompson Jr. Jr. From: Estes Park, Colorado Sep 23, 2012
| My partner and I mistakenly submitted this as a first ascent and were notified by the fellas who had climbed it previously. I will add this beta for extra info.... On the left end of the base of the triangular South face, look for a tree and a detached block. Scramble 30 feet of easy fifth class to a ledge with the 20 foot tall pine on it. P1: Directly behind the tree, follow a crack and then corner straight up, and step slightly right at a couple of points. This pitch goes up a couple of small dihedral systems but does not veer more than 5 or 10 feet to the right or left. Belay on the first big ledge you come to. 180 feet. A second option for belaying is to run it to the next ledge which may have your partner simul-climbing a short distance on 5.8/5.9. P2: Continue straight up to second, larger ledge, be careful to run the rope so that it does not knock of rocks onto your belayer. There is a thin crack on the middle/left side of the ledge, take this 25 feet to a pillar, step right of the pillar, then continue up its right side and a jug at a ledge. P3: Go straight up easy fifth class terrain until the angle eases. Either continue along ridge to summit of spire or look for a turquoise sling down and left. We rapped a slung horn 90 feet to a ledge then traversed easy fifth class to the gully and scrambled back to the base. |
By Mitch Musci Sep 23, 2012
| Looks like everything has been cleared up, but I will add that this route is not R rated and climbers looking for a nice 5.10 adventure should not shy away. With some traffic, I am confident this would become a classic. Thanks, Wes, for your trundling efforts! |
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