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 ADVANCED
Lower Gibraltar
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Conundrum T,TR 
Left of Rapture S 
Lieback Annie T,TR 
Rapture, The S,TR 
Warrior Crack T 

The Rapture 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Perlin
Page Views: 2,075
Submitted By: EricT on Feb 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Ari Levine looks on as Dad, Bruce, nears the top o...

Description 

Climb up and left from the belay ledge, and then end up just right of the arete. Three routes in such a small area makes it all feel a little contrived, but no worries..


Protection 

The route is well bolted and has a bolted anchor on top.


Photos of The Rapture Slideshow Add Photo
Erik enjoys sustained and aesthetic moves on "...
Erik enjoys sustained and aesthetic moves on "...
Stacy Tellinghusen enjoys sustained and aesthetic ...
Stacy Tellinghusen enjoys sustained and aesthetic ...
Thin, thin, thin.
Thin, thin, thin.
Coming up The Rapture, my first time at the Gibral...
Coming up The Rapture, my first time at the Gibral...

Comments on The Rapture Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 2, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is one of my very favorite routes in all of Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties (up there with "Goulara" at Wheeler Gorge). The position and exposure are nearly unmatched. The moves up the arete are sustained and interesting.

The climbing is, as the Edwards guide says, "unbelievably" well protected. A great first lead.

The top of the route sports two 12mm Fixe glue-ins which were placed in 2003. Back these up with a 1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolt placed 5-feet back from the edge. In order to top-rope the Rapture, you'll need to clip the top 3 bolts on the route (or risk a dangerous swing into the dihedral of Lieback Annie).
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Oct 9, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

All of the lead bolts on this route are the original hardware, 3/8" externally-threaded sleeve bolts like this

UPDATE:
All of the lead bolts have been replaced with stout 1/2" Rawls.
By Joe Stern
Aug 23, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Awesome little climb. Wonderful features, well protected, and fun movement. 8 protection bolts. Convenient to rap in off Lieback Annie anchors, lead The Rapture (8 bolts, could also clip one of the anchor bolts as a 9th protection bolt), then clip your anchor at Lieback Annie. 5.8 is fun!!!
By BGraham
From: Fullerton, CA
Aug 23, 2009

i would highly recommend rapping down from the anchors to the belay base. the ash from the fires has made the walk around really loose and precarious- and with the chaparral all but gone, the drop from the belay ledge looks pretty serious. That being said, its a fun climb and challenging for the grade!
By Neil Roessler
May 24, 2011

One thing that helped my partner and I on this route was clipping the first bolt of the route with a long sling while on rappel and then clipping the rope into that sling from the belay ledge (we also used this sling as a secure point for the belayer to clip into as well.

The problem I wanted to avoid was that if you were to climb up to clip the first bolt, you will risk falling 20 feet down to the base of the crag below the ledge where the belayer is and the climb starts. After clipping the sling, climb up to the first bolt and add a quick-draw to the bolt and then proceed.