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Radlands of Infinity, The S 
Tempest T 

The Radlands of Infinity 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Joyce & Richard Rossiter
Season: Crisp temps
Page Views: 2,097
Submitted By: slevin on Aug 28, 2001

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Mark established at the start of all the fun crimp...

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  • Description 

    From the Central Chimney, scramble to a nice stance at a flake-spike. Climb a short, right-facing corner, then follow bolts up a desperate stretch of high-angle slab work. A few of the flakes have snapped, possibly altering the grade.

    Pitch 2 takes a thin seam (gear) to some more bolts and the top. This pitch is good 5.12 and sports some friable rock if you grab holds blindly. There is a two-bolt anchor on top.


    A mixed route, mostly bolt-protected, but several wireds and TCUs are required, as is gear for the initial anchor (hand-size cams).

    Photos of The Radlands of Infinity Slideshow Add Photo
    Mr. T getting started below the slab.
    Mr. T getting started below the slab.
    Looking up the immaculate slab of Radlands.
    BETA PHOTO: Looking up the immaculate slab of Radlands.
    Last good hold before the anchor.
    Last good hold before the anchor.

    Comments on The Radlands of Infinity Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 16, 2015
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 2, 2002

    Although a tough route to recruit partners, this line is a classic. A crisp edging shoe, impeccable balance, and some crimp strength are key to sending this route.
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 6, 2002

    The second pitch feels harder than the first pitch, which I've seen rated anywhere from 12b to 13a depening on the age of the guide book and the sunsequent author. Excellent climb -- a highly coveted redpoint in my oponion even if it's considered a dreaded slab.
    By Richard Rossiter
    Apr 30, 2003

    OK. a little historical information is needed here. This line was first toproped by myself with Steve Ilg and Joyce (who was still my wife). We came back and worked out the pro/bolts and set it up. Steve never returned.The FA was made by Joyce and me. Joyce led the first pitch with no falls and no hangs, and I managed as well on the second pitch. All the bolts were placed by myself, as usual. Joyce never placed a bolt in her whole life, but was an amazing climber, posessing strength, courage and skill, powered by an indomitable will.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jan 19, 2004

    For someone interested in doing this difficult line, here is an impression from someone with aveage flexibility and mortal skin. We approached Radlands with benefit of Steve Levin's comments and would do things differently in the future. First, Radlands is a slab, steep, but still a slab. Rather than using edging shoes, I think a slipper with some edging capability is recommended. Most of the edges you will find will be worked as smears and not edges. The bite is off the edge and in the middle of the foot pad. Second, go when it is cool, not too cold. Third, the crux edges are highly unpleasant. While Radlands may be a great tick, the climbing is not fun. One can find equally difficullt and classic "slabs" on Devil's Head that won't leave your fingers a bloody mess. Last, good hip flexibility is important. The edges are too thin to pull hard on, which means that most of the motion is going to come from the legs and feet, so that means turn-out, like a dancer. Even then the edges will be unpleasant. Frankly, I cannot imagine how this route would exist without chipping off the patina to reveal the microedges that it does have, and that means exposing clean, sharp edges that wear relentlessly on the tips. My hat is off to someone who can walk up to Radlands and just do it, however, if you are looking for something in this difficulty range, then there are other local climbs that would make the experience more enjoyable.
    By Mark Tarrant
    Jan 26, 2004

    A note on gear for the first pitch: There are 2 fixed pins before the first bolt, so no gear is needed low down. I did get a pretty bomber off-set alien after the last bolt, before the anchor, and was glad to have gear for that final move. Wear any shoes you want, but go bouldering at Flag for about a month to get those babyskin tips hardened up for the sharp crimps at the crux. Pullup training won't help-just learn to trust your feet! Great route!
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 26, 2004

    Even having done a lot of bouldering at Flagstaff, I still cut my finger badly on one of the sharp edges above the third bolt. For what it's worth, I wore Miuras for the redpoint - seemed to edge and smear equally well.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jan 27, 2004

    My comment was not in any way intended as a dig at Steve, nor did I think his comments a sandbag. I was trying to get at the nature of how to tackle the nearly vertical smears. I was breaking in a pair of Mad Rocks, and they just seemed too stiff to balance the need for some edging and a whole lot more smearing. The Miura sounds good. Even on a nearly vertical wall, if you intend to smear, then those heels will need to drop. That means milking the "edges" off the side of the shoe. I think that the other point is this. If you are looking for a project somewhere in this difficulty range, then Radlands would be a bad choice. It is just too hard to work those sharp crimps in any more than a couple of trys. By contrast, the harder lines at Security or Anarchy Wall in Clear Creek won't wreck your hands and will be nearly as inspiring as Radlands (well, not quite). Moving quickly through the crimps seems to be important. The opening is awkward, but it won't wreck you. That reduces the hard stuff to 20 to 25 feet on the slab, but this is all sharp stuff. I don't know how Mark could be so enthusiastic about Radlands. As I was following him up this first pitch, I had to clean off the blood just to use the holds!!
    By Alex Shainman
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 29, 2010
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    If you like this, check these out: "CO Northern Front Range 5.12 Pure Slab Trilogy" (my suggestions and all non-Splatte routes).

    #1 is Between Nothingness and Eternity at Greyrock.
    #2 is Frisky Puppies at Lumpy Ridge.
    #3 is Blood For Oil at Combat Rock.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Aug 1, 2010

    I tried this thing in stiff shoes - I felt I was not getting enough contact & spun off the edges a tiny bit. Super tight, somewhat edgy shoes might have served better.
    This is the sort of climb that would be awfully hard to flash - some of the sequences are just too hard to try to reverse and are inobvious. Best of luck - even the "5.11" moves are hard.
    By Jason Haas
    Mar 15, 2015

    I first did this route over 10 years ago and got on it again yesterday. I didn't remember the rock quality coming into question before, but yesterday I was surprised by how many edges flaked off, both for hands and feet. I didn't remember it being friable, but I must have broke a dozen holds yesterday (not that there's much to break on this route). The climbing is still good and hard, but actually after doing it twice yesterday, I'm not convinced more holds won't snap off in the future.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Mar 16, 2015

    We (OK, more specifically *I*) broke some holds off when we were on it in 2010.
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