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Central Chimney T 
Radlands of Infinity, The S 
Tempest T 

The Radlands of Infinity 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Joyce & Richard Rossiter
Season: Crisp temps
Page Views: 1,795
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Aug 28, 2001

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Mark established at the start of all the fun crimp...

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Description 

An excellent scratch-fest up the clean left side of Blob Rock, this climb is as good as high-angle, thin face gets. From the Central Chimney, scramble to a nice stance at a flake-spike. Climb a short R-facing corner, then follow bolts up a desperate stretch of high-angle slab work. A few of the flakes have snapped, possibly altering the grade. Pitch 2 takes a thin seam (gear) to some more bolts and the top. This pitch is good 5.12, and sports some friable rock if you grab holds blindly. Two-bolt anchor on top. Really an excellent climb, probably unfashionable these days in that it requires considerable footwork and balance to succeed on. I prefer a good edging shoe like a Synchro on climbs of this nature- it is certainly easier on the feet. Catch it in mid-winter, on a nice crisp day with full sun, or you will grease away much of the fun.

Protection 

A mixed route, mostly bolt-protected, but several wireds and TCUs are required, as is gear for the initial anchor (hand-size cams).


Photos of The Radlands of Infinity Slideshow Add Photo
Mr. T getting started below the slab.
Mr. T getting started below the slab.
Looking up the immaculate slab of Radlands.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the immaculate slab of Radlands.
Last good hold before the anchor.
Last good hold before the anchor.

Comments on The Radlands of Infinity Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 1, 2010
By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 30, 2001

I meant to add that some have suggested doing this all in one pitch, but with good intermediate anchors and the potential for rope drag (not to mention blowing it up high), breaking it in 2 pitches makes a lot more sense. Great climb!
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 2, 2002

Although a tough route to recruit partners, this line is a classic. A crisp edging shoe, impeccable balance, and some crimp strength are key to sending this route.
By Dan Levison
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 6, 2002

The second pitch feels harder than the first pitch, which I've seen rated anywhere from 12b to 13a depening on the age of the guide book and the sunsequent author. Excellent climb -- a highly coveted redpoint in my oponion even if it's considered a dreaded slab.
By Richard Rossiter
Apr 30, 2003

OK. a little historical information is needed here. This line was first toproped by myself with Steve Ilg and Joyce (who was still my wife). We came back and worked out the pro/bolts and set it up. Steve never returned.The FA was made by Joyce and me. Joyce led the first pitch with no falls and no hangs, and I managed as well on the second pitch. All the bolts were placed by myself, as usual. Joyce never placed a bolt in her whole life, but was an amazing climber, posessing strength, courage and skill, powered by an indomitable will.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jan 19, 2004

For someone interested in doing this difficult line, here is an impression from someone with aveage flexibility and mortal skin. We approached Radlands with benefit of Steve Levin's comments and would do things differently in the future. First, Radlands is a slab, steep, but still a slab. Rather than using edging shoes, I think a slipper with some edging capability is recommended. Most of the edges you will find will be worked as smears and not edges. The bite is off the edge and in the middle of the foot pad. Second, go when it is cool, not too cold. Third, the crux edges are highly unpleasant. While Radlands may be a great tick, the climbing is not fun. One can find equally difficullt and classic "slabs" on Devil's Head that won't leave your fingers a bloody mess. Last, good hip flexibility is important. The edges are too thin to pull hard on, which means that most of the motion is going to come from the legs and feet, so that means turn-out, like a dancer. Even then the edges will be unpleasant. Frankly, I cannot imagine how this route would exist without chipping off the patina to reveal the microedges that it does have, and that means exposing clean, sharp edges that wear relentlessly on the tips. My hat is off to someone who can walk up to Radlands and just do it, however, if you are looking for something in this difficulty range, then there are other local climbs that would make the experience more enjoyable.
By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 26, 2004

Apologies to Richard W. for leading him astray with my comments on shoe type, route quality, etc. for this route, but I still maintain the points I made above.

Climbs feel different for different climbers, we each have our strengths amd weaknesses- and preferences. I still feel an edging shoe works best (for me) on this type of climb- I am more of a tap-tap edging climber than a smear-er (huh?), and still find myself wearing Syncros on high-angle granite. Perhaps a hybrid edge-smear shoe like a Katana would better serve on a route like Radlands, but I bought 6 pair of Syncros when they discontinued them and so I use them. Maybe it's just that a Syncro better supports the new, improved, heavier me.

And yes, it is crimpy and a little painful on the fingers (ah, it's hard 5.12 crimping!), but I still say "hats off" to Joyce and Richard for putting this fine route in. I agree- kudos to anyone who sends Radlands onsight.
By Mark Tarrant
Jan 26, 2004

A note on gear for the first pitch: There are 2 fixed pins before the first bolt, so no gear is needed low down. I did get a pretty bomber off-set alien after the last bolt, before the anchor, and was glad to have gear for that final move. Wear any shoes you want, but go bouldering at Flag for about a month to get those babyskin tips hardened up for the sharp crimps at the crux. Pullup training won't help-just learn to trust your feet! Great route!
By Dan Levison
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 26, 2004

Even having done a lot of bouldering at Flagstaff, I still cut my finger badly on one of the sharp edges above the third bolt. For what it's worth, I wore Miuras for the redpoint - seemed to edge and smear equally well.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jan 27, 2004

My comment was not in any way intended as a dig at Steve, nor did I think his comments a sandbag. I was trying to get at the nature of how to tackle the nearly vertical smears. I was breaking in a pair of Mad Rocks, and they just seemed too stiff to balance the need for some edging and a whole lot more smearing. The Miura sounds good. Even on a nearly vertical wall, if you intend to smear, then those heels will need to drop. That means milking the "edges" off the side of the shoe. I think that the other point is this. If you are looking for a project somewhere in this difficulty range, then Radlands would be a bad choice. It is just too hard to work those sharp crimps in any more than a couple of trys. By contrast, the harder lines at Security or Anarchy Wall in Clear Creek won't wreck your hands and will be nearly as inspiring as Radlands (well, not quite). Moving quickly through the crimps seems to be important. The opening is awkward, but it won't wreck you. That reduces the hard stuff to 20 to 25 feet on the slab, but this is all sharp stuff. I don't know how Mark could be so enthusiastic about Radlands. As I was following him up this first pitch, I had to clean off the blood just to use the holds!!
By Alex Shainman
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 29, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

If you like this, check these out: "CO Northern Front Range 5.12 Pure Slab Trilogy" (my suggestions and all non-Splatte routes).

#1 is Between Nothingness and Eternity at Greyrock.
#2 is Frisky Puppies at Lumpy Ridge.
#3 is Blood For Oil at Combat Rock.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 1, 2010

I tried this thing in stiff shoes- I felt I was not getting enough contact & spun off the edges a tiny bit. Super tight somewhat edgy shoes might have served better.
This is the sort of climb that would be awfully hard to flash - some of the sequences are just too ahrd to try to reverse and are inobvious. Best of luck- even the "5.11" moves are hard.