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The Racist 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Doug Reed
Page Views: 4,063
Submitted By: Darren in Vegas on Jul 31, 2007

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Jay Conway on the The Racist, 5.13b

Description 

This route has a reputation for being stout for the grade. This route is an Endless Wall classic, with the requisite long reaches between small holds.

Protection 

9 bolts


Photos of The Racist Slideshow Add Photo
Lee R. working the Racist. Photo by Pete Guyre.
Lee R. working the Racist. Photo by Pete Guyre.
Jay Conway on The Racist, 5.13b
Jay Conway on The Racist, 5.13b
Sticking the big deadpoint at the 3rd bolt.
Sticking the big deadpoint at the 3rd bolt.
Jay Conway on The Racist, 5.13b
Jay Conway on The Racist, 5.13b
Moving through the sustained thin compression woodgrain section in the middle.
Moving through the sustained thin compression wood...

Comments on The Racist Add Comment
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By ----
Dec 12, 2010

After negotiating a desperate opening move, the first three bolts feature reachy boulder problems split up by good shakes. Around the 4th bolt there is a cruxy deadpoint to a sloping crimp. After pulling this move rest up for a sustained section of crimping on micro edges (This is the true crux in my opinion).

Luckily you get one more great rest before entering the redpoint crux. The redpoint crux revolves around funking your way up a shallow dihedral. This is by far the most technical section of the climb. Pull out the bag of tricks for this section. Fool around with the angle in which you grab the ledge in the dihedral and try to work in a tenuous left heal toe cam. Stand proud as if you are as tall as Doug Reed and you may be able to pull through this section. Enjoy easier edging to the anchor after pulling the roof.

Is this route really 13b? Probably not, but its certainly on par with the grading of the rest of the cliff (i.e. heavily sandbagged).
By Blake Cash
Oct 22, 2012
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

I'll also add that one needs a LONG sling on the last bolt in order to clip it from the clipping hold...otherwise you're hosed.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Feb 11, 2013

The Racist was rated 5.13c when Doug Reed opened it in 1989 and for a while afterwards. The first onsight fell to Chris Sharma in 2008.
By Blake Cash
Mar 2, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

So Reed didn't give it the 13b rating? hmm...interesting.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Mar 22, 2013

I bet Reed gave it 13b when he put it up, but I have a Climbing magazine where in the Hot Flashes they report the first ascent at 5.13c. I suspect the media and locals reported it as 13c because they couldn't do it. When I frequented the New heavily throughout the early 2000's it was 13b in every guidebook. Albeit everyone I talked to about it considered it 13c and a sandbag at that. No matter the rating this is one of the finest thin face climbs in the US!