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The Rabbit Almost Died 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Reed, Begoon & Arts 1989
Season: Year round
Page Views: 103
Submitted By: Neal Poorman on Sep 3, 2013
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Description 

A varied and long route, "The Rabbit" climbs great rock and keeps you thinking, changing styles of rock and climbing along the way.
Start directly under the bolt, move left to the arete at the bolt and balance your way up. Powerful lock-offs on the left side of the arete lead to a stance and finally, some gear (10+ R). Up the mini dihedral then traverse right to a stance under the second bolt, take a few deep breaths and engage the awesome overhanging face above. Clip the 3rd bolt and make a memorable move left and up to some cool chickenheads (crux). Plug in some gear, climb the tricky dark rock then mantle onto a ledge. Climb the crack then head left and up in search of holds and gear to a 2 bolt anchor. Great climb!


Location 

The first arete climbers left of honeymooners ladders.
Make sure you have a full 60m rope as the traversing nature of the route ads to its length.


Protection 

Double cams to #2
Bring 4 or 5 2' runners



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By ----
Oct 30, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Take great care moving past the first bolt to the first gear placement. I will confirm the 5.10+ R rating for this section. Sure there are some other long runouts on the route, but realistically this is the only place where a fall would result in broken bones.