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BETA PHOTO: Topo for The Quota.
The Quota is a shorter route on the south rim with an ultra stellar crux. The sun hits around noon, so it's best to get an early start so as to not bake through the hard pitches or the first two hanging belays (summer beta). If you like the idea of pulling a perfect, huge roof 200 feet off the deck, you should do this route.
P1: go up crack below the roof, come up under the bolt, clip and go left and up to the belay. 5.11-, 115 feet.
P2: Sick. Climb up past two bolts and re-enter the main crack. Go up and out the roof, clip the anti-gear snatcher, turn the roof, and go to the belay. Save a #2 for right after the roof turn. 5.12a, 85 feet.
P3: continue straight up obvious crack, mount a big block, and go up through easy OW to a big ol' belay ledge. 5.10, 120 feet.
P4: pop up through the chimney and climb through the corner on good rock up to the belay on the beach. 5.7, 120 feet.
P5: go up thin seems above the belay and then walk/climb up left to the bigger ledge guarded by some junk rock and a big chockstone (visible from belay). The chockstone doesn't seem totally solid, so be cautious. Go up to the peg band, clip the bolt, and climb the worm hole. At the top of worm hole, go left to find the big grassy ledge. Save a #1, 2, and 3 for the belay. 5.9, 210 feet.
P6: go up the crack and traverse left until you find the big, bushy ramp going up to the right. Walk up and climb out a little chimney and belay somewhere to the right of the topout. Done. 5.8/5th class, 100 feet.
Go down the Dark Star gully off of Cedar Point, there is a cairn to mark the proper gully. The gully goes down and turns to the right, and it's the big f#@kin' roof on the right. The topout is the Cedar Point lookout. This is easily scoped from the right side of Dragon Point.
Doubles from 0.4-4 BD, 1 #5 cam optional, some small TCUs, and some medium nuts. A few quickdraws and some long slings. A 70m rope.
BETA PHOTO: Another view of the splitter roof.
BETA PHOTO: Jeff about to embark on the super sweet roof of &q...
Looking down at Jeff from anchors at the top of th...
BETA PHOTO: The route climbs the right side of the roof.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Sep 25, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
This is a great addition to the Black and a nice option if you're looking for a shorter outing. The crux pitch is outstanding with very unique moves and one of the best kneebars ever! I found it hard to grade this pitch, since it seems to sit right on that fine line of 11+/12-. Shorter climbers will probably find it harder, especially lower down on the pitch where there are a couple reachy sections.
The suggested rack was perfect without the #5, and we didn't use anything smaller than a 0.4 Camalot. An orange Alien was nice to have on the crux pitch.
By Rob Kepley
Sep 28, 2015
Also, we found some discrepancies with the topo. On the first pitch it says to climb up underneath a bolt and go out left to belay. There is no bolt when leaving the crack which made for an exciting lead. There is also no bolt (anti-gear snatcher) at the lip of the roof.