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Three O'clock Rock
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Big Tree 2000 T 
Big Tree, The T 
Bushy Galore T 
Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 
Ginsu T 
Magic Bus T 
Masters of the Universe S 
Penny Lane T 
Pucker Up S 
Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 
Rash, The T 
Silent Running T 
Till Broad Daylight T 
Total Soul T 
Under the Bored Walk S 

The Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Duane Constantino, David Whitelaw (1979)
Season: June - September
Page Views: 1,833
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Jun 30, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Anchors at the top of The Kone's fourth pitch

Description 

P1 - Climb up the middle of the sweeping slab between left facing flakes. Aim for the left side of an overlap. Great pro (bolts and gear to 1.5 in cracks on the side) all the way up. Clip the last bolt below the overhang, then pass it on the right (can put more pro in above the bolt).

P2 - A short pitch leads up and left past three bolts to an anchor beneath the left of two overlaps.

P3 - Pass the overlap to the left (7) or straight up through the middle (9). Follow knobby face to the next anchor).

P4 - climb up and left along the face and under a large roof past six more bolts to a good stance.

P5 Climb the fun, and easier, slab up and left past five bolts to the final anchors.

From the top set of anchors, rap with two ropes down Tidbits. Due to the spacing of the Tidbits pitches, we ended up rapping four times to get to the base. As of Jun 10, the slings on the anchors were getting a little ratty (where there are chains on some of the routes, the Tidbit rappels are all slings).

Location 

Three O'Clock Rock. Starts from a terrace between the Great Arch area and the Big Tree start (easiest access from the Great Arch side), and shares the terrace with Cornucopia and Till Broad Daylight.

Protection 

Six quickdraws plus some slings. Light rack to 1.5 inches. All anchors are fixed.


Photos of The Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone) Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down the first pitch of The Kone
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the first pitch of The Kone
Climbing the third pitch of The Kone
Climbing the third pitch of The Kone
Looking down the last pitch (5th) of The Kone
Looking down the last pitch (5th) of The Kone

Comments on The Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone) Add Comment
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By Morrismc
From: Raleigh, N.C.
Aug 8, 2011

Was on the climb today (8/07/11). Replaced slings on one anchor and had to do three double rope rappels to make it all the way down.
By the professor
Jul 10, 2013

Did the route Monday July 8, 2013. We linked P2 and P3 but the others are too long to link (at least with a 55m rope).

The Kone is a SUPERB adventure! All pitches are interesting and spic & span clean (unlike the bottom of Total Soul which is littered with dirt, pine needles, and other debris from the nearby avalanche chute). The plethora of knobs allows a moderate grade on the steeper upper pitches that traverse above the Great Arch, provided you pick the right knob sequence. The Great Arch being underneath also creates an exposed and aesthetic position that is lacking on other routes.

In summary, I think the Kone is a better route than the classic Silent Running. The only drawback was trying to find the lower rappel anchors. Two of our three double rope rappels were from trees (requiring the "donation" of a sling and biner).
By Joe Catellani
From: Seattle, wa
Oct 27, 2013

Historic note about Quinn Koenig, for who the route was named. He was a red head with a wild gleam in his eye, and soloed right up to(and sometimes beyond)his ability. Everybody expected him to die soon, but he fooled us all by quiting climbing. After his 1000+ ft fall on steep snow on Monte Cristo he "looked like the Michelin man" from swelling. but he walked out. more cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbt...
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Apr 23, 2014

Thanks Joe - I was wondering what happened to Quinn, and was hoping he was still around.

I remember seeing him at the UW climbing rock around 1980 - he always seemed excited, hyper is what we might say now, and talked in a high-pitched voice. He said that the maximum difficulty he could climb was 5.9, but then he would solo 5.9.