The Quiet Storm
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Working through the offwidth on pitch 1. January 2...
A shaded, varied and interesting route that takes you to the same belay ledge at the top of P3 of Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride allowing you to finish on the fourth pitch of that route to the summit.
Pitch 1 (165 feet, 5.10+) - Head up crumbly rock from the left to a bolt about 15 feet up. Pass through the small limestone band into some flaring finger crack that widens as you get higher eventually turning into offwidth. A #4 camalot protects the bottom of the OW. Higher up a #5 or #6 camalot likely protects this section but if you don't care for OW, gun through it laybacking to the hand crack and lower angle terrain above. it also appears you could get a #3 or #4 deep in the back of the OW.
Higher up, pass a drilled angle in a steeper hand crack section up to a short, clean corner with thin hands (.75 camalot) crack. Punch through this into a grunty left-angling offwidth section to gain a good, sloping ledge for a gear belay. Definitely save a #3, #2 and/or #1 camalot for the belay.
Pitch 2 (65 feet, 5.8) - Continue up the corner above the ledge on much easier ground for about 25 feet. Step right and make a slabby, unprotected traverse to the gully. Continue to the top of the gully and the belay, the same belay as the top of P3 of Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride. Gear belay anchor.
Pitch 3 (70 feet, 5.9) - The same as Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride's fourth pitch. Head straight up to a good ledge, move left quite a bit, clip the bolt and make the awkward mantle move up to easier ground and then to the cool summit.
On the shady north side of the formation. Hike up along the base of the formation on the loose trail about halfway up to the saddle above. Look for the bolt protecting the initial chossy section.
A full rack with doubles or even triples in the .75 to #3 camalots. TCUs for the flaring crack down low on P1. A #5 or #6 camalot would probably be nice on the OW of P1.
One rappel with two 60m ropes from the summit top to the saddle on the NE side of the formation. Or two raps with a 60m rope from the summit to the same saddle, using the rap anchor atop Unknown 5.8 (a.k.a. Rap Route 5.8)
BETA PHOTO: Route topo
Looking down the short corner of P2.
The slabby traverse near the top of P2.
|Comments on The Quiet Storm
|By J. Snyder|
Jan 23, 2013
This route is "The Quiet Storm".
5.10+ F.A. D.Bloom, T. Cosentino 1999
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 25, 2013