|The Main Wall
|SEASONAL CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT 1/15/13!! No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>|
The beginning of this route probably warrants either a PG13 or an R depending on your head/risk tolerance. It's also worth noting that this would be a four star route if it protected perfectly. (so if your mental game is on, go get it)
Climb on top of the column right of California Weakender, do an exposed boulder problem to gain the base of sketchy-looking block, and work your way up to the top of the block. (Left works well) After this climb the beautiful thin hand crack stem-box and finish pulling an exciting bulge on flaring hand jams.
It's possible to put a yellow tcu behind an uninspiring, small, hollow flake during the middle of the boulder problem, but it would be a very strenuous position to place from and probably isn't worth the effort due to the somewhat dubious nature of the placement.
Two lines climber's left of Wondertwins is an enormous, very sketchy-looking block. The Question Air Block climbs up on top of the block and then up the stem-box above. See California Weekender photo.
An optional green C3 will keep your body from hitting the ground if you fall during the boulder problem and roll off of the ledge below. After that you can put a BD #3 and #4 behind the big flake as you worm up behind it on your way to the ledge. If you're not psyched about putting gear behind the flake, it's reasonable to place more thin gear (green and red C3's) in the seam to the left of the flake as you go up. After this, doubles of BD .3-2 with an optional extra green C3 for piece of mind through the roof will see you to chains. (on the right after the bulge)
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