|616 page views|
|Type: ||Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10c [details]|
|FA: ||Rances Rodriguez, April 17, 2012|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Not summer|
|Submitted By: ||Caliza on May 28, 2012|
Traversing through the first three bolts before ju...
The route start on the right side of the cave of Flintstone Rock and traverse left along the lip of the cave. After third bolt the line jumps on the headwall following a series of pockets and crimps. Cruxes are gaining the head wall and at the very top right before gaining some juggy huecos on technical moves before reaching the anchors.
On Flintstone Rock, which has a huge arching cave at the base of the cliff on the left. Lower off or walk off. First two bolts are on right side of the cave above a diagonal, linear flake that's about 8 feet long.
10 bolts with 2 chain anchors. Retro-bolted 3 of the bolts on the headwall, now the bolt line is linear so that regular quickdraws can be used on the headwall with no concern for rope drag. Still would recommend draws on the longer side though. On the 3rd bolt use 120 cm sling and on the 2nd and 4th bolt 80 cm slings roughly. Due to the nature of the rock on the starting traverse, the bolts were placed in unconventional spots, that would create major rope drag with normal draws, but placed them in solid rock to avoid drilling into weak rock such as patinas; thus the the need for long slings.
After traverse about to gain headwall.
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jun 20, 2012
These new routes have been TR's for a half dozen or so years, so not really unclimbed territory, though I do think the route on the left should have been bolted a long time ago as climbing under that arch is pretty fun. I don't think anyone had the nerve to hang off that big junk under there and actually drill a bolt. The route that crosses Yabba Dabba is kind of a squeeze. Please try and keep the criss crossing bolt sharing stuff to a minimum.
I think it's awesome someone else is showing interest in putting up routes and incorperating their vision into the area. Just remember, one of the major draws to the area is it's un grid bolted, untouched feeling of seclusion and remoteness as you climb around the place.
Thanks for sharing the beta and please continue to do so.
I'll try and get on them sometime soon.
Aug 31, 2012
On the topo I've posted the routes may look close together as if they're grid bolted, but when you climb them, you realize there is quite a bit of healthy space between all them. In regards to the cross on Yabba Dabba Dudes and Oona Kuma, it gives an alternative start to both routes that is very natural and actually a lot funner and a more interesting start than the original start.
I was aware that the route had been TR'd, but MP doesn't have an FLA (First Lead Ascent) option. I agree, grid bolting is very unattractive, but I feel that Pine Canyon is safe from that given that many of the walls only have one route on them when they could fit several more without the danger of grid bolting.
Thanks for your input and will definitely take it into consideration.
From: Vacaville Ca.
Dec 24, 2012
Climbed this a few months ago. The climbing's fun as one would expect on an overhanging route like this.
Couple of nitpicks though. The bolt in the solution pocket was a really, really bad idea. Not only is it hard to clip and requires an extra long sling to clip, but a fall (cruxy there) will put an outward force on the bolt, it's weakest point. And it's a solution pocket, which are formed by water eroding a weak spot in the rock. That bolt needs to be moved and will now be a useless eye sore for all time. Another thing that bothered me was that the route had some bolts moved for whatever reason. This should have been sussed out while toproping it. You never should have drilled unless 100% confident in where the bolts need to be. Also the studs from the old bolts need to be removed as they are a serious hazard to anyone who might hit them in a fall on the route, they're also an eye sore. Last nitpick is the glue in job is extremely messy and unsightly and the glue was not properly mixed in spots and never set up. This raises concerns as to the integrity of the bolt placements as a whole.
I can tell you guys are new to this. I'd love to help out. I have experience placing and replacing hundreds of bolts and have put up about 50 routes, mostly multi pitch.
Jan 14, 2013
I appreciate your feedback, and there are definitely things that in hindsight I realized could have been done differently to leave less of a trace, such as the messiness and extra studs. The only thing that I have to mention that you are wrong about is the glue, the GLUE WAS 100% PROPERLY MIXED. The glue used was Red Head A7 Epoxy and only till it was thoroughly mixed in the nozzle and came out with the right consistency, was it injected into the bolt holes. Also, I see your concern about the hueco bolt but want to mention that I tested all the rock around every bolt entirely with a hammer, and all the bolts were place in the strongest rock in its individual given area. The rock at the back of the hueco/pocket is extremely solid rock and a lot stronger than the surface rock outside of it; hence decision to bolt in it. I am cognizant of the fact that the first four bolts require very long slings; I sacrificed convenient, bolt placements that would have allowed for the use of normal draws for the non-conventional placements to ensure solid rock in which the glue could adhere. Thanks for your input, it is appreciated, and I am fully aware of the points you aforementioned, but I also wanted to address any doubts about the glue itself.