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1. Start as per Blankety Blank
, clipping it's first bolt. Climb up and left to a piton, then over the bulge to a bolt on the right. Angle left to the large ledge.
2. A tricky move off the belay leads up the face past several bolts, a piton, and a few small gear placements. When you get to the last bolt, head straight up for the .11c crux, or go left for a .10d finish. Belay bolts shared with Blankety Blank--you can rap with one rope.
draws, a few pieces up to 1"
By C Miller
Jul 14, 2008
The 1st pitch is somewhat heads-up, and a fall above the 2nd bolt could result in a broken ankle if you hit the sloping ledge jutting out beneath it.