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1. Start as per Blankety Blank
, clipping it's first bolt. Climb up and left to a piton, then over the bulge to a bolt on the right. Angle left to the large ledge.
2. A tricky move off the belay leads up the face past several bolts, a piton, and a few small gear placements. When you get to the last bolt, head straight up for the .11c crux, or go left for a .10d finish. Belay bolts shared with Blankety Blank--you can rap with one rope.
draws, a few pieces up to 1"
By C Miller
Jul 14, 2008
The 1st pitch is somewhat heads-up, and a fall above the 2nd bolt could result in a broken ankle if you hit the sloping ledge jutting out beneath it.
By Alex Shainman
May 31, 2016
On the first pitch, it's also possible to link the start past the pin and bolt back into Blankety Blank's upper P1 right facing flake/corner for a slight variation...and yeah, it's highly recommended not to take big falls on either these two routes/variations.