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The Quarry Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankle Wrecker 
Banquet 
Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher 
Bowels, The 
Depression  
Eastern Heart 
Elephantiasis 
Finger Wrecker 
Frank's Tame Years 
Frank's Wild Years 
Kleptocracy 
Koolaid 
Marry Me, Becky 
Moby Dick 
Mummy, The 
Offwidth Bulge 
One Night 
Recession Arete 
Scotland 'Wales' 
Shark Jaw 
Sharkcicle 
Short Tour, The 
Silver Bullet 
Something to Do 
South ArÍte 
Southwest Face 
Stimulus 
Tough Love 
Unknown 
Warm Up Crack 
Whale, The 
Yearling 
Unsorted Routes:

The Quarry Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.77208, -105.20542 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 51,794
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Apr 14, 2008
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Shark Jaw....

Description 

The Quarry Wall is a little-known trad climbing area located just east of the main North Table Mountain cliffs. Much of the development has been done by locals Jimmy Menendez, Hank Caylor, and Wayne Crill. The cliff has a handful of short routes of all grades, and three "showcase" longer routes on the main cliff -- all of which are excellent.

Although the rock can be flaky and dirty (primarily due to lack of traffic), and the ambiance is tainted by the constant buzz of the Coors Brewing Company, the wall offers an easy approach and sheltered, south-facing rock, making it a good winter destination. Also, it provides a rare opportunity to do some pretty sustained jamming close to Denver/Boulder. The rock seems to be columnar basalt.


Getting There 

From Washington Avenue (Golden's Main Street), take 10th Street east. On your right you will pass the Coors complex. 10th turns into 44th, and parallels CO Hwy 58. After a mile, you'll go under CO 58; take an immediate left hand turn and follow the hairpin turn back west until it dead-ends at a T-intersection. To your left is an on ramp to CO 58 W, to your right is Easley Way. Park on the righthand corner at a large gravel lot.

Looking up from the parking past a few houses, you'll see the wall (and even the climb Bone Crusher) clearly. Hike towards the on ramp and follow a very good trail much further west than you think you want to go. This trail skirts underneath terraced road cuts on the slope above. Eventually the trail will wind back north between the mesas.... Keep your eyes peeled for a very well-traveled trail that splits off to the right (the junction is cairned). Follow this back east again, now above the terraces, until you are directly below the main wall.

There are three lines here: The left is Frank's Wild Years (5.11-), the middle is Silver Bullet (5.12-), and the right is Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher (5.12). Further to the right are the shorter climbs, and easy access to the top for setting up top ropes.


L->R: 

West of the Quarry

Koolaid, 10, 1p, 75', gear.
Unknown, 8, 1p, 60', gear.

Quarry
A. Shark Jaw, 7, 1p, 90', gear.
B. Sharkcicle, 10-, 1p, 90', gear.
CD. Frank's Tame Years, 11-, 1p, 80', gear.
D. Frank's Wild Years, 11, 1p, 80', gear.
DE1. One Night, 13, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
E1. Banquet, 12, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
E2. Silver Bullet, 11+, 1p, 80', gear.
F. Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher, 12, 1p, 80', gear.
G. Kleptocracy, 12+, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Elephantiasis, 12+, 1p, 85', bolts.
I. Depression , 10-, 1p, 65', gear & 1 bolt.
J. Recession Arete, 12-, 1p, 65', bolts.
K. Eastern Heart, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
L. ??, 10+, 1p, 40', gear.
M. Tough Love, 12, 1p, 40', 2 nuts in situ & gear.
N. Marry Me, Becky, 10, 1p, gear.
O. The Crill-Menendez, 12, 1p, gear & bolts?
P?. Stimulus, 12, 1p, bolts.
Q. The Gnome, 12, 1p.
R. The Short Tour, 10-, 1p, 40', gear.
S. The Bowels, 8-, 1p, 40', gear.
T. Offwidth Bulge, 9 (+++), 1p, 30', gear or TR.
U. Warm Up Crack, 8, 1p, 30', gear.
V. The Mummy, 8+, 1p, 30', gear & bolts.

East Quarry - to the right.


Dogs 

According to a Jefferson County Open Space ranger, dogs in the Jefferson County Open Space (including here) should be on leashes.


32 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',5],['5.11',4],['5.12',5],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',3],['V2-3',4],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Quarry Wall:
The Whale   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   
Offwidth Bulge   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
The Short Tour   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Marry Me, Becky   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Frank's Tame Years   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Frank's Wild Years   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Silver Bullet   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Recession Arete   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Stimulus   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Kleptocracy   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in The Quarry Wall

Featured Route For The Quarry Wall
Looking straight up Bone Crusher.

Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b  CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall
Bone Crusher (sometimes referred to as Bone Collector) is the line to do on the wall. It is the rightmost of the three climbs at the main wall (the one visible from the road) and offers continuously high quality, difficult climbing.Begin in a slightly loose, difficult to protect slot and work up to good gear and a rest on a ledge out right. From here some interesting moves lead up to another rest at a jug, and then the business begins: Climb up to a small wedged flake below the steep, bulging...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Quarry Wall Slideshow Add Photo
A hard route to the right of Marry Me B.
A hard route to the right of Marry Me B.
We climbed the short offwidth just to the left of the mummy head. It felt about 5.9.
We climbed the short offwidth just to the left of ...
A crowded day at the Quarry Wall, from Marry me Becky to The Mummy.
BETA PHOTO: A crowded day at the Quarry Wall, from Marry me Be...
The most current guidebook to the South Quarry with the best approach information.
The most current guidebook to the South Quarry wit...
Comments on The Quarry Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 12, 2013
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 14, 2008

Josh. Excellent that someone finally posted these hidden gems! Now that the cat is out of the bag, I think Bone Crusher is one of the best crack routes near Golden. Who would have thought that IC training could be so close to home! Thanks for posting them. Are you going to post the warm ups that are on the right? One is 5.9 hands/thin hands bit flared. The other one has a fist section through a tight corner. I don't remember what Jimmy called those.

By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Apr 14, 2008

The flared thin hands crack on the smaller right buttress with anchors at the top is "the short tour", the line on the far L. of this butress, fingers to fists up high is Marry Me Becky ~5.10, Menendez and Gallagher respectively. All these route were done years ago.

I concur with Darren, Bone Crusher is the standout route at the crag and one of the best splitters "around".

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 14, 2008

The cat is out of the bag! Be sure to stay off the private land by the houses where the barbed wire fences are.

By Dougald MacDonald
Apr 14, 2008

Does anyone know the ownership of these crags and the land beneath them? It's my understanding that they were being kept quiet because they are on private land (an old quarry), even though all the surrounding land is open space. I hope the access is safe...the climbs are unique for this area.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 14, 2008

Dougald, that's a great question. My understanding is that the crag itself is JeffCo Open Space, but was unclear about how far down towards the road that land extended. I have been told that the School of Mines has geology classes along those lower rock bands and that it is public access left of the power lines. This is unverified and may be incorrect.

By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Apr 14, 2008

Dougald, my understanding is that this area was off limits until about 1.5-2 yrs ago when the land was purchased by Open Space, from the mine/quarry owners. This is also word of mouth, but my information is that Jimmy Menendez spoke with Open Space about this and the purchase was confirmed. I believe C. Leubben knows of the official status.

What I do know is that at this time ~ 2 yrs ago, the barbed wire fence with no-trespassing signs was taken down (still visible under the power lines) and official open space parking areas were constructed as described in the write up and also up at the end of ridge road (alternative access). It certainly would be nice to know "for sure" what the status is.

By david goldstein
Apr 14, 2008

There must have been a lot of pent up demand to comment on this "secret" crag. The day of the area's initial submission may still be young, yet an impressive 17 posts have proceded this one.

By sean connors
Apr 14, 2008

The cat is finally out of the bag! Bitter sweet I suppose. Super fun spot. Definitely the place to go for some splitter action on the Front Range.

By Bjorn
From: Near Joshua Tree
Jul 16, 2008

I just posted some pictures I took on my first recon visit to the Quarry Wall. I have listed the pictures according to the routes I take them to be based on information gleaned from this site. If I am mistaken in which pictures are in fact of which routes, I apologize. I'm brand new to the area and exploring my new climbing home. I will happily edit the captions if any of what I posted is incorrect. That said, sick cracks!

By Chris Cavallaro
Jul 17, 2008

Great shots, and you are dead on as far as the pictures/routes.

By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Aug 28, 2008

I've always parked at the Ridge road parking area. It's the "Future Parking Area" on this conceptual map. You hike on an abandoned road all the way to the quarry. I suppose it's a little farther, but probably doesn't take that much more time and there's no question that it's on JCOS land the whole way.
www.jeffco.us/jeffco/openspace_uploads/ntm_park/NTMconceptma>>>

By Doug Redosh
Jan 8, 2009

The approach trail as pictured in the new guidebook, is not accurate. There is a route here, but is much steeper and made of game trails. The trail as described in the body of the report above is a good sustainable trail. Have not tried the approach as described above in the comments section.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 11, 2009

Doug,

You are correct, the line drawn in the photo in the new guidebook is a bit off from the actual trail. However, the trail currently used crosses back and forth over private property several times. As such, the guidebook is drawn in so as to stay off any private property and potential access issues. Please feel free to let me know of any other comments you have about the book.

Jason

By Doug Redosh
Jan 16, 2009

Actually, looking at the Jeffco Open Space Map as per Brian M's comment in Aug. 2008, ANY approach that starts at the CO 58 onramp crosses private land. Will try his approach next time.
Also, the routes listed below The Mummy, currently starting with Natural Born Topropers, are on a separate buttress about 250 yards to the east, reachable by trail. Toprope anchors are a bit more challenging to find on the left side of the wall.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 11, 2009

Doug, thanks for looking into this more. When I get some time, I would like to consult a surveyor's map rather than this one www.jeffco.us/jeffco/openspace_uploads/ntm_park/NTMco>>>>> as it is not extremely detailed/kinda vague and we do not want to encourage people to cross private property, even if it doesn't currently seem to be a problem. We struggled with the idea of including the area in the guidebook at all, but after talking with two different people from Jefferson County Open Space, they said that they owned the land from the cliff down to the highway now, thus allowing a legal access from the currently purposed parking area. If this is incorrect, we will attempt to contact the landowners and see if they are ok with the trail or change the directions in the next edition of the guidebook. Thanks again.

Jason

By Brady Robinson
May 25, 2009

I've been meaning to post about the rockfall. I was up there early April and the rockfall hadn't occurred yet. I was up again May 8 and noticed the rockfall. I'd say it happened late April. Anyone in the area probably would have heard it. Bone Crusher and the other splitters are unaffected, other than a few big boulders at the base. I agree that there is probably going to be another big rockfall event at some point which will bring down the rest of the sport climb.

By kevin murphy
From: Lafayette, Colorado
May 25, 2009

Kind of like, uuhhh, Karma.

By Mark Rolofson
Oct 8, 2010

In September 2010, I self-published a new guidebook titled "Golden Rock Climbs" that retails for $20.00. "Golden Rock Climbs" is a complete guide to North Table Mountain (including the four quarry wallls) and the sport climbs of Golden Gate State Park near Dude's Fishing Hole. The new route info at the South Quarry (Aka: the Quarry Wall) is in my guide. To answer Dave Holiday's question, the route between "The Short Tour" and "Stimulus" is called "The Gnome" (5.12b) and was first led by Jimmy Menendez in January 2009. The approach information to the South Quarry shows the two recommended approach trails that follow old road beds versus the steep wash or gully that is shown as the approach in Jason Haas and Ben Schneider's North Table Mountain Guide.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Apr 29, 2011

Got the poop scared out of me by a big nasty rattler today up above Frank's Wild Years/Bone Crusher area. Be careful up there.

By SteveZ
From: Arvada, CO
Feb 12, 2013

Found a camera up here today near Frank's Years. Give a pm if it was yours, and we can figure out how to get it back to you.