The Pyramid area is one of the warmest (south facing) crags in The Park. Most of the established routes are on good varnish which ranges from perfect white varnish ("White Dihedral") to great brown varnish ("Wrap that Rascal", "The Six Finger Fist). There are several very good crack and face routes. Recommended crack routes include "High Tops" 5.10a*,"Wrap That Rascal" 5.10b*,"White Dihedral" 5.7* (white varnish dihedral just right of High Tops) and "The Six Finger Fist" 5.10a* (the wide splitter 100 meters left of the bottom of High Tops). Good face routes include "The Snakeye Pillar" 5.7* (continuous, 4 bolts) and "Stink Finger" 5.10* (sport bolted, 8 bolts). There is a 3 bolt 5.7 called "Stink Steak" just right of the "White Dihedral."
Hike up Rattlesnake Canyon past slabs and waterfalls for approximately 20-30 minutes past where the canyon turns west. Soon after turning west the canyon opens up and the Rattlesnake Buttress and The Bulkhead will be seen up on the left side of the canyon. 200 meters past this point you will see large slabby formations up on the right wall of the canyon. This is the Pyramid area.
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Featured Route For The Pyramid
High Tops (Cheops) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Pyramid
High Tops ascends the clean dihedral to the crux undercling on the main face of the Pyramid. Undercling left to where you can cross the roof (balancy) to slightly incipient cracks on the face above. Make easier moves up and right to a good crack. A ways up the good crack face holds lead out left (unprotected) to a hanging belay (Todd Swain 5.11 face route) and rappel station. The FA apparently continued up the crack to the top....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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