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West Face of the Pulpit
Description The Pulpit is the lowest formation in "Upper La Cueva Canyon", and the first crag encountered when hiking up the La Luz Trail. Due to its distance from the Sandia Crest, this crag sees little action, and any ascent guarantees a long day.
This is a true spire that requires a rappel descent. One 60m rope is adequate if you don't mind a short, 2nd class scramble.
Getting There Approach from the Sandia Crest, down the La Luz trail. When the La Luz trail crosses to the North side of the Canyon, continue down for several hundred yards past the Frog. The trail will make a distinct trun to the north, at which point it traverses below the Lost Spectacle cliff. The next cliff north is the Pulpit. The La Luz then climbs over a subtle saddle. Depart the La Luz trail 20 yds north of this saddle, by scrambling up a faint climber's trail. Continue to the cliff base.
Sandia Select indicates its a wash approaching from the top or bottom. This may be true in terms of time (if you account for relative driving times), but is likely untrue in terms of hiking effort.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Pulpit:
Water Stains 5.7+ Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
Featured Route For The Pulpit
The Cave Route 5.7 NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : The Pulpit
This route ascends the West Face of the Pulpit, and passes a cave in the cliff at mid-height. I didn't find the cave to be too exciting, but apparently that is the main attraction to the Pulpit. This route would almost qualify as a waste of time, if not for the excellent 3rd pitch, which is very interesting on great rock, with just the right amount of gear.This route is most frequently described as having 4 pitches, although we climbed it in two pitches (with a 60m rope) with little difficulty... [more] Browse More Classics in NM
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the Pulpit/Yataghan area from the La L...
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West face of The Pulpit as viewed from the southwe...
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BETA PHOTO: A question about the route Poontang, regarding the...
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By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Apr 6, 2008
| Early in the year, The Pulpit becomes climbable long before La Luz Trail is clear of snow in Upper La Cueva Canyon - perhaps one reason to consider the 1 1/2 to 2 hour approach from below. |
By longfeather
From: Albuqurque ,NM
Jul 17, 2010
| We just climbed a new var or so.
west face center ..find lower trash slings from old rap offs go direct two pitches keeping right of shredded slings or right of chossy red granite then climb slot with giant loose block. keep left of bolted belay ledge . climb straight up and clip a strange bolt . head direct up from there keeping right to summit finish on cool low angle crack . ( on start ood sport route potential to go thru red granite and climb arete)
noticed a fixed line on south side of west face couldn't understand its purpose but let it alone . Its easy terrain my dogs made it to the middle of the fixed line
I was a bit confused that day( calling pulpit Pear a formation at lumpy ridge (Age ) my guess 5.8- r ish . fun. probably not worth another try to get it better. The rap anchors on the back side should be removed and a modern rap route installed. I removed a mountain club anchor that was tight on a nice tree restricting its growth. thanks for the rings.
Also day of Bear Attack and thanks for not letting us drive to top (why we climbed off of busy La Luz) Hey you fat stupid sheriffs.. Kill the idiot car camping with food not the BEAR. many days in sandias overnight Hang food its urban wildreness in most areas.... |
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jun 6, 2011
| From the summit, rapping east into the saddle behind The Pulpit is typically a double-rope rap followed by a hike / scramble initially heading north from the saddle. The rap anchor includes a chain around a boulder for at least the last seven years.
Howard Snell and I have rapped from the above anchor with one 70 meter rope. Just be sure it's hanging by its middle!
I also understand that downclimbing north from the summit (i.e., to the left if one is facing towards the mentioned saddle) leads to a couple of single-rope raps from trees. I have not gone this way yet.
Was at the base yesterday and was glad to see the fixed line had been removed. |
By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 6, 2011
| I have just only done this climb once but down climbed the ridge (5.4) that is in the Hill guide.
No raps and no problem.
Anyone else done it this way?
I would give more details but my memory is kinda fuzzy...
Jeremy |
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