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Temple of Sinawava
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The Pulpit 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a C1

   
Type:  Aid, 2 pitches, 50', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c C1- [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,899
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Feb 28, 2003
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Description 

The Pulpit, a great aid and free climb across the parking lot from the entrance to the Narrows. Climb the bolt ladder to a ledge, then climb 5.5 to the first belay point with a pin.

I replaced two bolts on the Aid Ladder because the bolts just pulled out of the wall! Continue up a crack using aid or free climbing at the 5.10 level.

This climb is classic. November was a great month to climb this route. Also, in November the river is down and the route is great to climb in the early evening.


Protection 

Take a set of Tricams, work excellent in the crack above the first pitch. Quickdraws.


Location 

From The parking lot in the Temple of Sinawava, cross the Virgin River and find the obvious little tower.



Photos of The Pulpit Slideshow Add Photo
Don leading pitch two of the  Pulpit in October 1992.Larry belaying at the belay ledge. <br /> <br />
Don leading pitch two of the Pulpit in October 19...
Jugging up the 2nd pitch. Photo from the ledge at the top of the crack. 14 Mar 08
Jugging up the 2nd pitch. Photo from the ledge at ...
View of the pulpit from the parking lot. The route ascends the face hidden by the tree to the right, goes up the slanting ramp, and then the crack on the right of the arete.
BETA PHOTO: View of the pulpit from the parking lot. The route...
The first bolt on the first aid pitch is bomber. The rest of them look like this, or worse.
BETA PHOTO: The first bolt on the first aid pitch is bomber. T...
Scotty leading P2.
Scotty leading P2.
The Pulpit
The Pulpit
Looking down on The Pulpit from Monkeyfinger.
Looking down on The Pulpit from Monkeyfinger.
Comments on The Pulpit Add Comment
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By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Nov 27, 2006

Why are there bolts next to the perfect crack on the second pitch? Are those the original Beckey bolts?

By Brian in SLC
Nov 28, 2006

"Why are there bolts next to the perfect crack on the second pitch?"

I wouldn't probably refer to that crack as "perfect". Kind of a flaring, undulating, somewhat rotten in spots, awkward crack. My bet is that at the time, the FA was trying to protect the upper part of the route without resorting to using really big angle pitons or the like, since cams hadn't been invented yet (1967).

"Are those the original Beckey bolts?"

Methinks Pat Callis placed them. Not sure if Beckey was along for the FA of the pulpit? I think they knocked this off between rain and bad weather whilst waiting to do the Great White Throne. I chatted to Pat after I had climbed it a few years back, and he said the variety of bolts indicates they were still looking for the optimum solution to anchors in the soft white rock of the GWT. His wife said something to the effect of, "are those bolts still there? They looked bad when he placed them." Too funny.

By Don Thompson
Dec 10, 2006

Modern climbing in Zion began in 1967 with the ascent of the Great White Thone via the Northwest Face, the first of Zion's big walls to be climbed. Prior to this ascent, the Park Service had long refused to give permission for climbing the long and steep canyon-side faces. Fred Beckey had gained permission after sending a letter to the park guaranteeing a Seattle based rescue team on call, and particulars of each of the original team member's experience: Warren Harding, Galen Rowell, Eric Bjornstadt, and Fred Beckey. By the time permission had actually been granted, the team changed to Fred Beckey and Galen Rowell and Pat Callis, who spent several days preparing the lower section, and made the first ascent on May 5-7, 1967.

Don Thompson

By raygay
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Mar 16, 2008

The transition from the slanting ledge at the P1 anchor into the P2 crack is awkward and the crack starts out with poor opportunities for gear. I didn't feel well protected until I got a sling around a small column next to a hole about 10 feet up. The crack quality improves as you go up. The four bolts on P2 seem pretty solid compared to the junky bolts on P1, but the homemade aluminum angle hangers are soft and a bit deformed. One of these P2 bolts has previously broken off. Back up the bolts with solid gear in the crack as best you can.

By JayBrink
Mar 3, 2010

definitely worth the river crossing.
the bolt ladder is scary as hell. and the traverse to the crack on P2 is a little sketchy. the bottom half is sandy and a little rotten. top half is like heavenly golden niceness good gear abides the whole way, if you know what you are doing. bring an extra camalot #4. it helps. alot.
do it when it snows and then you will be BAMF

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 14, 2010

This climb is more like 120'. You need 2 ropes to descend (or 2 rappels using the intermediate anchor should work).

The books say this climb goes free at 5.11, but the bolts on the crux bolt ladder section at the start are mostly old/scary and the free line isn't right in line with them.

By steve lindsay
Jan 18, 2011

P1-Yes, bolts are as scary as bolts get. All of them. Lots of trouble getting biners to fit in the aluminum angle clips.
P2- Yes, the crux is getting in to the crack at the start of P2.
Top has upper(newer) anchors over the west face and lower (older) NW facing anchors(towards your gear.) I rapped all the way to ground from lower anchor with 70m.

Fun route. Wet, dusty, and cold in January but fun. River crossing is easy.

By Ron Thompson
From: Idlewild, CA
Dec 31, 2011

In November 1997 Don Thompson and Larry Ciak climb a new route off the original line on the Pulpit. Climb the bolt ladder to the first belay ledge 5.5. from here is the crux to the main crack past a bolt. Follow the crack and bolts aid or free halfway up and than traverse a long crack across the Pulpit to a belay ledge at the end of the traverse belay your partner across the traverse some rope drag. Climb a 5.9 crack or aid to the top. The traverse takes many large nut, and a set of Tricams cams which works well across the traverse. Rap from the bolts on top down the original route. Thompson traverse 5.9 C2 .

By Ron Thompson
From: Idlewild, CA
Aug 8, 2013

I did the 'Thompson Traverse' on the Pulpit last October what a great traverse across the pulpit ! my friend Keith Chapman and I did the climb to the top of the spire in using the traverse. The route was first climb by Don Thompson and Larry Ciak. Don added two bolts on the first belay ledge because the anchors pulled in 1992 they were two pins than now anchored by two bombproof bolts and the first bolt on the bolt ladder was also replaced in 1992...