|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 450'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA:||Gordon Wiltsie, Jay Jensen (FA, 1970's) -- Dale Bard, Bob Harrington (FFA crux pitch, 1980's) -- Peter Croft, Dayle Mazzarella (FFA entire route, 2000|
|Submitted By:||Bryan G on Apr 22, 2011|
|Comments on The Prow||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Nov 4, 2011
The crack on p3 is amazing, although I only toproped it. It would be a scary lead, not just for the "r" factor in the 5.11 climbing getting up to the crack, but because the climbing involves pulling straight out on some pretty friable flakes that might break, no matter how solid a climber you are.
I'm wondering, has anyone done p3 without the 5.11R start, but by doing a lower angle, unprotected left traverse from the belay of "Shadow in the Rain," which is above the roof and to the right of the Prow crack? It looks like easier climbing.
By andy patterson
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 2, 2014
My friend Bernd Zeugswetter and I climbed this in June. Perfect rock climb—with the exception of the funky 11ish climbing before the upper 12b portion. Bernd onsighted the pitch (very impressively, I might add—he climbed up and down the 5.11 portion several times before committing) and I followed clean as I well. The lower portion isn't terribly hard, just weird and hard to protect since some of the flakes aren't totally solid. You CAN protect it, however. Just get creative.
The upper portion climbs like a 12b sport-climb. Charge it! Gear is solid, movement is sporty, and positioning is unparalleled.