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The Prow
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The Prow 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Paul Davidson and Steve Grossman
Page Views: 8,380
Submitted By: Dean Hoffman on Feb 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (82)
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Paul Davidson (leading) and Steve Grossman on the ...

Description 

The Prow is one of the classic routes at the Forks and Northern Arizona. Protected by almost all .75 or green camalots this route starts at the base of a good ole fashion OW. From there the well protected small hand crack heads up and up, finally turning into a decent hand crack and then topping out at the top of the cliff.

Protection 

Hope you've got a couple green Camalots, 3 or 4 should suffice. Also rack a small unit just in case for the top of the pillar and a #1 and #2 for the top section of the route. Either be brave and build an anchor at the top to the route or run your line back away from the edge to anchor off. Please don't use the large prominent pine tree atop the Prow wall due to erosion concerns. Have fun.


Photos of The Prow Slideshow Add Photo
Gollum on the first ascent
Gollum on the first ascent
Kole near the top of the Prow, just gotta stuff those chubby fingers in a few more times til you reach the rim :) PHOTO BY HILLARY DAVIS.
Kole near the top of the Prow, just gotta stuff th...
Reid on The Prow.
Reid on The Prow.
its not all ringlocks
its not all ringlocks
The Prow <br />
The Prow
Milking a small but great left foothold near the crux of The Prow.  Photo by Jordan M.
Milking a small but great left foothold near the c...
The Prow at Paradise Forks.  Photo by Ryan.  21 Jun 2014.
The Prow at Paradise Forks. Photo by Ryan. 21 Ju...
apirion way up on the prow
apirion way up on the prow
the offwidth start
the offwidth start
michelle t with the trusty catch.  what a line!
michelle t with the trusty catch. what a line!
Taking a rest in the top section of the prow.
Taking a rest in the top section of the prow.

Comments on The Prow Add Comment
Show which comments
By misterclimberman
Apr 28, 2006

As for the gear beta, here is what I would recommend. I would recommend a yellow Alien or TCUfor the start of the pillar, a 0.5 Camalot, 3 .75 Camalots, and 3 #1 Camalots. I believe I placed more #1 Camalots on the routes than 0.75s. great route.

bobby
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Jul 25, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The crux isn't too long, protects well, and can be done a couple of different ways. If the off-width start doesn't bother you, then this is an excellent first Forks 5.11.
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Aug 20, 2008

This was my first 5.11- crack send. Pretty doable
By Aleix
May 18, 2009

I should have read this thread before getting on it. Not having three green cams (.75) made me blew my onsight. Downclimbing to recover the right gear below and climbing back up will certainly get you pumped. I bet the first ascent was done with hexes and nuts, so what am I whining about...
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Aug 15, 2009

I think reading this page would have blown your onsight too.
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 19, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

My rack for this is BD: .4, .5, 3x .75, 2x 1, 2
I disagree about using the top of the pillar as the start- part of the endurance of the route is the OW start. Although the crux is in the ringlocks (or thin hands), the route feels easier when started from the pillar which takes away from the overall character.
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 6, 2010

Finally gave this a whirl on lead. It wasn't the shit show I predicted, though I did hang. It's tough, and sickly enough I liked the off-width. Hard to get the toes in the crack up above the ledge. Can't wait to try it again and see how it goes.