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The Professor 

Hueco: V5-6 Font: 6C+

   
Type:  Boulder, 8'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,202
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Description 

Sit start on shallow underclings. Pop out left to edge and cross feet. High heel with left hand in super-shallow dish. Super-thin crimp with the right hand. Pull hard and deadpoint to sloping topout holds.
Location of your heel will make this climb V6 for some and V-impossible for others. Accuracy of your heel placement is paramount.

As an alternative for 6ft+ climbers, It is possible to make a big move from the right undercling and left flake all the way to the top.

Location 

Just right of Up and on bulging low-ball boulder.

Protection 

Pad


Comments on The Professor Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 7, 2013
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Feb 25, 2008

i thought the guide book says V5?
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Feb 26, 2008

It does. But it is harder than all the other V5s I've done or tried.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 26, 2008

i was introduced to this route soon after its first ascent and i was told it was V7... i onsigthed it and as far as i know i came up with the heel hook beta, i sugested V5 but im pretty tall so that might explain it... until then it was all wicked strong dudes who had done it and using techneque had never occured to them they just went straight up without the heel hence, V7... ok im done with my story... good night...
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Aug 5, 2008
rating: V5 6C

I've never seen anyone use the heel beta. I saw one guy (5'10'') send by sticking the lip with his left from the right hand undercling and another (5'8'') just pull on and stick the lip right handed from the low edge/right undercling holds--he then described the move as being "like throwing a baseball at the lip."

I try this every time I go to Pawtuckaway and can't frickin' do it! It's replaced Gadgetry as "that probelm I just can't seem to do."
By GarrettM
From: bedford, nh
Nov 5, 2008

i really didnt find this route that difficult. i just used the heel hook and powered 1 move to the top out. Mind you im 6'2" so i see it being a little more difficult for smaller climbers. My friend who is about 5'9" was able to do the same but he found a higher right foot that bumped him up about 4 inches.

Definatly a "holy shit how did i do that" type of route though. Super fun
By Jesse Coburn
From: Manchester, NH
Apr 16, 2009
rating: V5 6C

i'm 5'9" and stuck the top with the left hand on the really good side pull and right hand on the sticky face crimp. it felt v5 to me. the heel hook beta would totally go, but i needed to work it for a little while longer. i thought the first move was the hardest. the weird under cling gave me the most trouble.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 25, 2009
rating: V5 6C

I'm weak and suck, but I'm tall. I think that tall person beta makes this very problem much easier, it went down again last night and I don't climb this grade.
By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Sep 19, 2010
rating: V6 7A

I am not that tall..around 5'10"... was able to do it by from the side pull and the thin crimp...with feet underneath, just launching to the lip... the heel beta seemed a bit ridiculous.
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Oct 10, 2010

so not sure if this is old news but I was out there last friday and the undercling start is gone... you now have to start with the pocket and the side pull out left... does it make the grade easier?
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Oct 15, 2010
rating: V5 6C

The left hand starting undercling is indeed gone, but it can still be started without skipping the first move. Right hand still goes in the pocket, but gaston the hold below the pocket with your left and layback off a low left foot. Slightly harder than before, but still V5.
By Ian Wauchope
From: Dover, NH
Dec 12, 2010
rating: V5 6C

I agree with bryce. The first move does not need to be skipped. I did it yesterday with the pocket and a crappy sloper left of the pocket. The difficulty feels the same as before.
By James Simone
Apr 7, 2013

I never knew there WAS a left hand start - I always started by pulling on right handed in the pocket, since the guidebook says you shouldn't start AT the left sidepull. I did this years ago with the throw, and went back yesterday to basically punish myself.

I wasn't managing the throw to the lip without my foot dabbing on the pad, but without having seen the comments here I tried the left heel hook and it works unbelievably well. This may even be easier than v5 with the heel.