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Professor Falls Area
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Professor Falls, The 

The Professor Falls 

WI4

   
Type:  Ice, 6 pitches, 900', Grade III
Original: WI4 [details]
FA: Prof. Eckhard Grassman
Page Views: 2,413
Submitted By: Colin Simon on Mar 30, 2011

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Pitch 4 of Professor Falls in stupid good conditio...

Description 

This is a drainage-style waterfall climb similar to those found in the South Fork by Cody, Wyoming. It is remarkably consistent in its moderate grade.

Pitches:
1. WI3/4, 40m. A short 85 degree step followed by a less steep bulge to bolted anchors.

2. WI3/4, 55m. A short 85 degree step. Keep walking and climb the next WI3 step to more bolts.

3. WI3/4. Climb a short step (this should be old news by now). Supposedly there are bolts, but we couldn't find them under the snow and ice.

4. WI3. A short step.

5. WI3. A couple of moderate steps lead to a tree anchor on the side, or screws/threads in the middle of the flow. It is possible to link 4 and 5 with 60m ropes.

6. WI4, 30m. Bigger and more sustained than the previous pitches, this is the money. The left side involves 20m of 80-85 degree ice, while the right side is steep enough that a ballsy leader could easily pick a fat WI5 section.

Rappelling the route with one rope would be annoying, but possible. Two ropes would be preferable.

Protection 

Screws.
V-threads for rappelling.


Photos of The Professor Falls Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Clay cleaning on the second pitch of The Professor...
Clay cleaning on the second pitch of The Professor...
Rock Climbing Photo: get'en ready for some higher learnin'!
BETA PHOTO: get'en ready for some higher learnin'!
Rock Climbing Photo: Will Buckner in front of the final pitch of The Pr...
Will Buckner in front of the final pitch of The Pr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Last pitch of The Professor Falls, December 22, 20...
BETA PHOTO: Last pitch of The Professor Falls, December 22, 20...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1, late season
Pitch 1, late season
Rock Climbing Photo: Clay and I coming up on The Professor Falls
Clay and I coming up on The Professor Falls

Comments on The Professor Falls Add Comment
Show which comments
By Janette
Apr 19, 2014

The way the bolts are set up now it's actually 8 pitches. See the Ice Lines guidebook for details.
By erik rieger
From: Ridgway, CO
Jan 19, 2015

This can be done in 4 pitches with some walking/simul-climbing on the section below the final pitch.
By Nick Sweeney
From: Spokane, WA
Feb 23, 2016
rating: WI4

Just an incredible, fun climb. Great way to get a ton of mileage in. The approach was super chill (not steep), a little long, but icy. I highly recommend approaching in hiking shoes with micro spikes or similar. That said, I made it without falling (barely) in climbing boots and no crampons to the rolling ice before the route. Rappels were easy with two 60m ropes.

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