The Professor Falls
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|Type: ||Ice, 6 pitches, 900', Grade III|
|Consensus: ||WI4 [details]|
|FA: ||Prof. Eckhard Grassman|
|Submitted By: ||Colin Simon on Mar 30, 2011|
Will Buckner in front of the final pitch of The Pr...
This is a drainage-style waterfall climb similar to those found in the South Fork by Cody, Wyoming. It is remarkably consistent in its moderate grade.
1. WI3/4, 40m. A short 85 degree step followed by a less steep bulge to bolted anchors.
2. WI3/4, 55m. A short 85 degree step. Keep walking and climb the next WI3 step to more bolts.
3. WI3/4. Climb a short step (this should be old news by now). Supposedly there are bolts, but we couldn't find them under the snow and ice.
4. WI3. A short step.
5. WI3. A couple of moderate steps lead to a tree anchor on the side, or screws/threads in the middle of the flow. It is possible to link 4 and 5 with 60m ropes.
6. WI4, 30m. Bigger and more sustained than the previous pitches, this is the money. The left side involves 20m of 80-85 degree ice, while the right side is steep enough that a ballsy leader could easily pick a fat WI5 section.
Rappelling the route with one rope would be annoying, but possible. Two ropes would be preferable.
V-threads for rappelling.
BETA PHOTO: get'en ready for some higher learnin'!
BETA PHOTO: Last pitch of The Professor Falls, December 22, 20...
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