This is a drainage-style waterfall climb similar to those found in the South Fork by Cody, Wyoming. It is remarkably consistent in its moderate grade.
1. WI3/4, 40m. A short 85 degree step followed by a less steep bulge to bolted anchors.
2. WI3/4, 55m. A short 85 degree step. Keep walking and climb the next WI3 step to more bolts.
3. WI3/4. Climb a short step (this should be old news by now). Supposedly there are bolts, but we couldn't find them under the snow and ice.
4. WI3. A short step.
5. WI3. A couple of moderate steps lead to a tree anchor on the side, or screws/threads in the middle of the flow. It is possible to link 4 and 5 with 60m ropes.
6. WI4, 30m. Bigger and more sustained than the previous pitches, this is the money. The left side involves 20m of 80-85 degree ice, while the right side is steep enough that a ballsy leader could easily pick a fat WI5 section.
Rappelling the route with one rope would be annoying, but possible. Two ropes would be preferable.
V-threads for rappelling.
Clay and I coming up on The Professor Falls
Clay cleaning on the second pitch of The Professor...
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Will Buckner in front of the final pitch of The Pr...
Apr 19, 2014
The way the bolts are set up now it's actually 8 pitches. See the Ice Lines guidebook for details.
By erik rieger
From: Ridgway, CO
Jan 19, 2015
This can be done in 4 pitches with some walking/simul-climbing on the section below the final pitch.
By Nick Sweeney
From: Spokane, WA
Feb 23, 2016
Just an incredible, fun climb. Great way to get a ton of mileage in. The approach was super chill (not steep), a little long, but icy. I highly recommend approaching in hiking shoes with micro spikes or similar. That said, I made it without falling (barely) in climbing boots and no crampons to the rolling ice before the route. Rappels were easy with two 60m ropes.