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The Principality

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: ZachBradford on Jun 22, 2011
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Seth Cowley at the top of mano-y-mono

Description 

The Principality is a perfect summer area for the 5.12 climber. The rock is a high quality and very compact welded tuff. The routes range from 35 to 65 feet in length and tend to require strong fingers and good footwork. The area offer several very fine test pieces but does not offer very much in terms of easier climbing.

It is agreed the grades in the guidebook are sandbagged a bit, So if your grade seeking be prepared to work for it.

The area is still very much untapped and holds a lost of potential for future development.


Getting There 

About a mile from panguitch lake their is a large meadow if you look north across the meadow you will see the cliffs standing on the hill side surrounded by trees.

From Cedar City, take Highway 14 East to Highway 148 (this is also the turn for Cedar Breaks National Monument). Drive through Cedar Breaks (no fee required if you're just driving through) and make a right (east) on Highway 143. Take Hwy. 143 for 13 miles take a left onto bunker creek road (081) their is a small sign labeled 'bunker creek' just before the turn off. Follow the dirt road after .08 miles you will pass a rusting flatbed trailer. Some low clearance viehicles park here and hike the remainder of the way (1.3 mi). The road is still passable for most vehicles until you turn away from the meadow towards the mountains. If you are not in a truck or SUV park well off the road before you get to the trees. If you have the clearance continue up the rough road. There is a parking area on the left side of the road 2.1 miles from the pavement. (large enough for two cars, roughly boxed by logs.)

Once you arrive at the parking area head east back down the road to the clearing filled with fallen trees(50 feet). Look for the tree limb lined trail that switch backs up the hill. after 300 yard you should come to a well marked junction one heading up to the upper tier the other heading slightly downhill to the lower tier.
(Less complicated than it sounds)


7 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',3],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Principality
Seth Cowley at the top of mano-y-mono

Mano-y-mono 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c  UT : Cedar City : ... : The Principality
Sustained crimps and monos to a crux between the fourth and fifth bolts then the route ends with twenty feet of fun five eleven climbing. This route could be classic but there are a lot of manufactured holds. Kind of a disappointment but it's still one of the most beautiful climbs i've seen....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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