|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 200'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||1989 Purcell, Mellor|
|Submitted By:||Kevin Heckeler on Jul 7, 2012|
|Comments on The Prince||Add Comment|
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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Jul 7, 2012
P1 and P2 can be combined (with careful rope management). P1 belay is uncomfortable.
Pitch 2 and 3 are great 5.7 pitches, combining face and crack technique. I agree with Adirondack Rock's assessment that this is comparable to Quadrophenia in quality for the grade, although it's nothing like Quadrophenia.
Fwiw, our party walked into The King Wall just to climb this route. Was defnitely worth it.
Aug 3, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
We climbed the 2d pitch as described above, and found it to be neither 5.7 (traverse moves after down climb seemed harder) nor G (the rock at the mini-roof is not the best). We also climbed the last pitch, most of which is quite good but has some bad rock on the last 40 feet or so.