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The King Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Wack and Dangle Job T 
Chronic Fixation S 
Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 
Four Guns Blazing S 
Kingdom Come S 
Prince, The T 
Working Wives S,TR 
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The Prince 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 1989 Purcell, Mellor
Page Views: 785
Submitted By: Kevin Heckeler on Jul 7, 2012

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Valerie Bachinsky approaching the first belay, P1 ...


P1 5.5G (50') - Up to ledge (or traverse from left on ledge), then up to a left facing corner. Climb the corner then traverse right to a bolted belay.

P2 5.7G (60') - Climb straight up, through overlap (crux), up to small roof (for gear), then step back down to make a couple moves left (more gear), then up and right on a ledge with a good belay at a left facing open book.

P3 5.7G (90') - (V1) Climb left side of flake, follow fingercrack up and left, along a ramp, up a shallow corner (sometimes wet) to a jutting rock. Behind this (crux), up and left through the roof. Travese left to belay/rap.

You will not reach the ground with a single rope rappel. Expect to use the rappel station about 50 feet below and right of the top rap station.

V1 5.9+R - Straight up black face (bolt). Use the handcrack in the roof to right leaning crack that cuts back left to a ledge and belay (80 feet). Up 5.7 slab (100 feet) to the top. The walkoff right is poor, so this doesn't get climbed much.


Center of cliff (far left of where the trail meets the wall), right of the bolted 5.12a line of Working Wives that shares the same start.


Standard Rack

Photos of The Prince Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up Pitch 1 of The Prince 5.7 (King Wall),
Looking up Pitch 1 of The Prince 5.7 (King Wall),

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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Jul 7, 2012

P1 and P2 can be combined (with careful rope management). P1 belay is uncomfortable.

Pitch 2 and 3 are great 5.7 pitches, combining face and crack technique. I agree with Adirondack Rock's assessment that this is comparable to Quadrophenia in quality for the grade, although it's nothing like Quadrophenia.

Fwiw, our party walked into The King Wall just to climb this route. Was defnitely worth it.
By aghetie
Aug 3, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Great route.

We climbed the 2d pitch as described above, and found it to be neither 5.7 (traverse moves after down climb seemed harder) nor G (the rock at the mini-roof is not the best). We also climbed the last pitch, most of which is quite good but has some bad rock on the last 40 feet or so.
By Derek Doucet
Oct 14, 2014

This is a very nice route, with excellent face climbing, a gorgeous if tragically short finger crack, and great position and views. The last pitch has some nice low angle face climbing on its first half before deteriorating into less clean and interesting terrain for the second half. Trending up and left yields the cleanest line. Still, it's worth doing to top out on this very cool cliff.

A few things to be aware of, however. First, the fixed gear and anchors have seen better days and appear to be Pat Purcell's original 25 year old bolts. They are rusty, sport old SMC hangers in spots, and if memory serves at least a couple of them are 5/16". There's no telling how good they are, but they are definitely showing their age. Second, the pro on the first two pitches as described in the guidebook is not "G" in my opinion. It is well spaced and often in questionable rock. PG seems fair if it holds. If anything were to blow due to rock quality, a long and messy fall would result. Finally, the "balanced flake" described at the start of p3 is a spooky feature. It's big and has no visible means of support. It's just sitting there. I'd recommend avoiding it all together, which is certainly possible.

All in all, an under-appreciated high quality moderate route, probably not for leaders maxed out at the grade.

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