The Pretender  5.11 R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Steve Levin & Jeff Achey, May 2007 New Route:  Yes Fixed Hardware:  1 Lead Bolt [details] Submitted By:  Steve Levin on May 15, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This straightens out the 2-pitch route Jackson Brown, creating a sustained and interesting one-pitch lead.

Climb the dihedral for 25 feet (crux is first 15 feet), pull over the bulge on angling holds, crank straight (runout 5.10) up to a bolt in a tiny right-facing corner, then up and right on good holds to the top.

It was led ground-up.

Location 

Near the left end of Lower Peanuts, and just before the talus slope, find a radically right-leaning dihedral.

Protection 

Many tiny wires to 3" cam. The gear is okay but difficult and strenuous to place.