The presiditator (Snow Canyon St Park), 1st bolt missing?

Can anyone tell me why there is a bolt missing from the 3 bolt start of the prestidigitator/ fragments of floyd? There are two empty holes, no first bolt.

What is the reason for this? When I lead the route, I had to go far right after placing a #1 on a long sling behind a rotten block. I will admit that I did not want to fall on this, and manged to stick clip the second after some sillyness. Even if my cam held, I think I would have hit the ground. If I had fallen at the 2nd bolt, which seems likely as the position is tenuous and awkward.

So, what gives? why is the bolt gone? can I put a bolt back in there? is there a bolt war in Snow canyon I don't know about. There are lots of other bolts by cracks that take excellent gear there. So I don't know what gives.

Both the prestidigitator and Fragments of Floyd are great routes. It would lead to them being done more if the bolt returned.

Thank you for any information.

Rob Warden, Space Lizard wrote:Can anyone tell me why there is a bolt missing from the 3 bolt start of the prestidigitator/ fragments of floyd? There are two empty holes, no first bolt. What is the reason for this? When I lead the route, I had to go far right after placing a #1 on a long sling behind a rotten block. I will admit that I did not want to fall on this, and manged to stick clip the second after some sillyness. Even if my cam held, I think I would have hit the ground. If I had fallen at the 2nd bolt, which seems likely as the position is tenuous and awkward. So, what gives? why is the bolt gone? can I put a bolt back in there? is there a bolt war in Snow canyon I don't know about. There are lots of other bolts by cracks that take excellent gear there. So I don't know what gives. Both the prestidigitator and Fragments of Floyd are great routes. It would lead to them being done more if the bolt returned. Thank you for any information.

although possible, it seems unlikely. Both of the holes are neat, power drilled(or exceptionally well hand drilled), and unmarred. They are also 1/2inch holes and placed very closely to each other(5-6inches). They are not 5/16th, or 1/4in which could pull easily under a fall in soft rock. I don't think I can think of a 1/2inch bolt failing in a way that left a clean hole.

I have placed hundreds of bolts, and removed as many of all types. Its still perplexing to me.

Fragments of Floyd climbs past three bolts directly under the shared belay chain on Prestidigitator above - Prestidigitator starts around a bulge on the right and then traverses left and up. Fragments goes direct/straight up a little further left. They do not share any common pitches, just that first belay.

Fragments was power drilled (Bosch 36V Lithium SDS+) (with Park & CATS permission/authorization) with 6x1/2" bolts very carefully placed to create a safe and fun lead.

I'd conducted research with Hilti directly on establishing a minimum standard for bolts in the park and it's specific variation of Navaho sandstone.

A real shame if someone's stripping bolts. It costs significant time and money to establish climbs, besides spoiling other climbers access to great routes.