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The Precipice

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bartleby 
Birch Ade 
Chicken of the Sea 
Chlitlin Corner 
Connecticut Crack 
Country Corner 
Crack Of Senility 
Dynamo Hum 
Emigrant Crack 
Fear of Flying 
Fingers on a Seascape 
From Russia With Love 
Games Without Frontiers 
Green Mt. Breakdown 
Gunklandia 
Gunklandia Direct Variation 
High Wire 
Jaws 
Juvenile 
London Bridges 
Madame Dubois Wild Ride 
Maniacal Depression 
Michael's Pin 
Old Town 
Philidelphia Story, The 
Pipe Dreams 
Precipice Ledges 
Ramp Traverse, The 
Recollections of Pacifica 
Retlaw 
Return to Forever 
Rusticator 
Scaramouche Arete 
Sea Gypsy 
Space Between 
Standard Route 
Story of O 
Sweet Surrender 
Trotsky 
Vacation Cracks 
Wafer Step 
Unsorted Routes:

The Precipice 


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Page Views: 64,292
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Brett Butera on Mar 10, 2007
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The view.

Description 

The Precipice is located in Acadia National Park on the east side of Mount Desert Island in Maine. The glaciated pink granite is high-quality, solid rock for climbing and provides some excellent dihedrals, such as the classic climbs “Old Town” (5.7) and “Return to Forever” (5.9). Other not-to-miss climbs include: “The Story of O” (5.6), “Green Mountain Breakdown” (5.9+), and “Chitlins Corner” (5.10a). From the top of the climbs, one has a spectacular view of the Atlantic Ocean. A guidebook is available for the island, “Acadia: a climber’s guide” by Jeff Butterfield and can be picked up at Cadillac Mountain Sports in Bar Harbor.

The crag is over two hundred feet tall at its highest point, resulting in 2-3 pitch climbs. The climbs are traditional and require a standard rack of mixed stoppers and mostly small-to-medium size cams. Fixed rappels are located at the top of many climbs. A 60-meter rope is best, although most climbs can be done with a 50-meter rope. Due to Peregrine Falcon nesting, the right side of the Precipice is closed seasonally.

The island has many campgrounds, although the island is more of a bed-and-breakfast type of place. Definitely try some of the local brews on the island. The Bar Harbor Real Ale is exceptionally good and is made by the Atlantic Brewing Company on the island. Also, if you need an inexpensive, fatty burrito after climbing, go to Gringo’s in Bar Harbor.


Getting There 

Directions to the Precipice: From Bangor, Maine, take Rt. 1A to Ellsworth and then Rt. 3 to Mount Desert Island. Once on the island, head towards Town Hill on Rt. 198. Continue on Rt. 198 until you reach a junction with Rt. 233, at which you’ll need to take a left. From Rt. 233 take a left to enter Acadia National Park. Take the park loop road past the Precipice Trailhead parking. The trailhead to the crag is approximately 100 meters past the trailhead parking. You can park on the right side of the two-lane one-way road. You’ll know you are on the right approach trail when you see the climber sign-in box. Continue on the trail until you reach a small cliff, where you need to head left across the talus field to the base of the crag.


41 Total Routes


['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',9],['5.8',4],['5.9',6],['5.10',7],['5.11',9],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Precipice:
Wafer Step   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Story of O   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Gunklandia   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   
Old Town   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Chlitlin Corner   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   
Bartleby   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Gunklandia Direct Variation   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Recollections of Pacifica   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 50'   
Chicken of the Sea   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Green Mt. Breakdown   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 125'   
Return to Forever   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 95'   
Sea Gypsy   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Emigrant Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 85'   
Fear of Flying   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 20'   
Sweet Surrender   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Connecticut Crack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 70'   
Jaws   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   
Juvenile   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Maniacal Depression   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Pipe Dreams   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in The Precipice

Featured Route For The Precipice
About to move "into" the crack above

Fear of Flying 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b  ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice
Amazing finger crack off the 1st pitch ledge of The Story of O-Place gear at any point-Great movement -if only it were as long as Chitlins Corner :/...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Photos of The Precipice Slideshow Add Photo
The Precipice from Schooner Head Road
The Precipice from Schooner Head Road
Overview of the Precipice
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the Precipice
view from a belay ledge on The Precipice
view from a belay ledge on The Precipice
the view
the view
Leading Chicken of the Sea, Precipice Wall, Acadia National Park, Maine.
Leading Chicken of the Sea, Precipice Wall, Acadia...
Early morning start in the parking lot of the Precipe
Early morning start in the parking lot of the Prec...
Old Town
Old Town
A. Boys from Bangor <br /> <br />B. Chitlin's Corner & Green Mountain Breakdown <br /> <br />C. Old Town & Connecticut Crack <br /> <br />D. Emigrant Crack & Return to Forever <br /> <br />E. Story of O
BETA PHOTO: A. Boys from Bangor

B. Chitlin's Corner & Green M...
Sunrise from Story of O
Sunrise from Story of O
A view of the ocean (and the approaching ferry from Nova Scotia) from atop the Precipice.
A view of the ocean (and the approaching ferry fro...
Bomber.
Bomber.
Comments on The Precipice Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 11, 2007

Due to a recent earthquake, beware loose rock

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 25, 2007

The Precipice is one of the coolest crags I have ever climbed at. Incredible position, incredible view, incredible climbing!

The guidebook "ACADIA: a Climber's Guide," by Jeff Butterfield, is an outstanding resource and gives excellent beta on the routes at the Precipice.

By Luke Hanley
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 26, 2007

If you make the trip to New England, make a point to head to this crag. In my opinion the rock, and climbing are both quality. If you're a 10 plus-11 trad leader you'll make quick work of these routes, but the quality is so good you might just do some routes twice.
One you must do is Green Mt. Breakdown...absolutely classic climbing and position.

By climberKJ
From: Holderness, NH
Jul 16, 2010

Anyone know when the closure takes place? I'd like to go up in August, but want to make sure this wall is open to climb.

By Michael Buchanan
May 14, 2011

Sweet area! Killer granite, nice cracks. The approach (like most in the east I have been to) is amazingly short. Can get here at the crack of noon and climb a dozen routes!

By dyana313
Jun 6, 2012

A great place to get beta or any gear you might have forgotten is the gear shop at 228 Main street, Alpenglow Adventure Sports. And if you don't know how to trad climb, Acadia Mountain Guides (run out of the same shop) can take you out to some amazing sea cliffs or granite splitters.