The Precipice aka The South Wall Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the Precipice
The Precipice is located in Acadia National Park on the east side of Mount Desert Island in Maine. The glaciated pink granite is high-quality, solid rock for climbing and provides some excellent dihedrals, such as the classic climbs Old Town (5.7) and Return to Forever (5.9). Other not-to-miss climbs include: The Story of O (5.6), Green Mountain Breakdown (5.9+), and Chitlins Corner (5.10a). From the top of the climbs, one has a spectacular view of the Atlantic Ocean. A guidebook is available for the island, Acadia: a climbers guide by Jeff Butterfield and can be picked up at Cadillac Mountain Sports in Bar Harbor.
The crag is over two hundred feet tall at its highest point, resulting in 2-3 pitch climbs. The climbs are traditional and require a standard rack of mixed stoppers and mostly small-to-medium size cams. Fixed rappels are located at the top of many climbs. A 60-meter rope is best, although most climbs can be done with a 50-meter rope. Due to Peregrine Falcon nesting, the right side of the Precipice is closed seasonally.
The island has many campgrounds, although the island is more of a bed-and-breakfast type of place. Definitely try some of the local brews on the island. The Bar Harbor Real Ale is exceptionally good and is made by the Atlantic Brewing Company on the island. Also, if you need an inexpensive, fatty burrito after climbing, go to Gringos in Bar Harbor.
Current closures and conditions on the NPS site: nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/tra...
Directions to the Precipice: From Bangor, Maine, take Rt. 1A to Ellsworth and then Rt. 3 to Mount Desert Island. Once on the island, head towards Town Hill on Rt. 198. Continue on Rt. 198 until you reach a junction with Rt. 233, at which youll need to take a left. From Rt. 233 take a left to enter Acadia National Park. Take the park loop road past the Precipice Trailhead parking. The trailhead to the crag is approximately 100 meters past the trailhead parking. You can park on the right side of the two-lane one-way road. Youll know you are on the right approach trail when you see the climber sign-in box. Continue on the trail until you reach a small cliff, where you need to head left across the talus field to the base of the crag.
Weather station 10.4 miles from here
45 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Precipice aka The South Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Precipice aka The South Wall:
Wafer Step 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Story of O 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Gunklandia 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Old Town 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Bartleby 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Sea Gypsy 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Jaws 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 190'
Juvenile 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Pipe Dreams 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For The Precipice aka The South Wall
Chicken of the Sea 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a ME
: Acadia National Park
: The Precipice aka The South...
Climb the face up to the hanging corner (which Trotsky follows), and break left up the steep, juggy flake ladder. Pull up on to the slab(the guidebook called this the crux, but I though the steep climbing was harder, if more secure)and follow the small, left facing corner to a ledge and a gear anchor. Alternatively, traverse right from the ledge and belay from the slings at the top of Trotsky's Corner. ...[more] Browse More Classics in ME
The Precipice from Schooner Head Road
view from a belay ledge on The Precipice
Leading Chicken of the Sea, Precipice Wall, Acadia...
Early morning start in the parking lot of the Prec...
BETA PHOTO: A. Boys from Bangor B. Chitlin's Corner & Green M...
A view of the ocean (and the approaching ferry fro...
|Comments on The Precipice aka The South Wall
Apr 11, 2007
Due to a recent earthquake, beware loose rock
By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 25, 2007
The Precipice is one of the coolest crags I have ever climbed at. Incredible position, incredible view, incredible climbing!
The guidebook "ACADIA: a Climber's Guide," by Jeff Butterfield, is an outstanding resource and gives excellent beta on the routes at the Precipice.
By Luke Hanley
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 26, 2007
If you make the trip to New England, make a point to head to this crag. In my opinion the rock, and climbing are both quality. If you're a 10 plus-11 trad leader you'll make quick work of these routes, but the quality is so good you might just do some routes twice.
One you must do is Green Mt. Breakdown...absolutely classic climbing and position.
From: Holderness, NH
Jul 16, 2010
Anyone know when the closure takes place? I'd like to go up in August, but want to make sure this wall is open to climb.
By Michael Buchanan
May 14, 2011
Sweet area! Killer granite, nice cracks. The approach (like most in the east I have been to) is amazingly short. Can get here at the crack of noon and climb a dozen routes!
Jun 6, 2012
A great place to get beta or any gear you might have forgotten is the gear shop at 228 Main street, Alpenglow Adventure Sports. And if you don't know how to trad climb, Acadia Mountain Guides (run out of the same shop) can take you out to some amazing sea cliffs or granite splitters.