The Praying Mantis
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BETA PHOTO: The right side of "The Sleeping Indian Wall" ...
|Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>|
This route originally started on the first 2 pitches of "The Monitor"...
Pitch 1-Start up the line of Titanium bolts, stemming and pulling through the steep crux-5.10d above. 90' to the anchor.
Pitch 2-Continue 4th class into the cave entrance and scramble up the tunnel to the huge cave above. Instead of turning left in the cave toward "The Monitor", turn up and right to find 2 large windows in a beautiful, sunlit cave hang... The Praying Mantis is the window on the right and Monkey See Monkey Do is the window on the left with a fixed rope to descend to the starting anchor.
(A few years after the first ascent, Justin Day, Sarah Bria and Chaz helped me establish a direct 2-pich start to the PRAYING MANTIS)
AS OF JANUARY 2012, I RE-BOLTED(with titanium) THE DIRECT 2-PITCH START TO THE PRAYING MANTIS!!(with the help of Mark Miner) NOW IT IS A FIVE PITCH CONTINUOUS CLIMB WITHOUT GOING INTO THE CAVE!!
Pitch 1-Start 25' to the right of THE MONITOR. Climb up the low angle start up to the tufa pillar. Pull through the roof at the top of the pillar and step up right to the anchor(5.10b)
Pitch 2-Continue straight up the Ti-bolts for 28 meters to the window belay below the crux pitch of the MANTIS. This pitch meets up with the Original SNAKE, GANJA, RASTAMAN 2nd pitch. Fun, Steep continuous climbing! (5.10d)
Pitch 3-Traverse right out the mail-slot pockets to face the crux headwall. Crank through the steep roof, then continue up the beautifully sweeping wall of pockets above(crux5.11+)!!
Pitch 4-this pitch flows nicely straight up into the steep tufa fins and then past the pocketed crux(5.11a). Continue up the slab and behind the huge stalactite pillar to find the anchor.
Pitch 5-Climb up the juggy tube to step out on the featured golden rock above(5.9+). Stellar finishing pitch!!
From the beach, walk up the road past the Cat Wall. Step up the trail on the left to the Lost Wall, and turn to the left along the cliff to the base of The Monitor Wall...
By back-clipping the entire route, one 60 meter rope will work for the descent!
This route is is fully equipped with Ti-bolts and some threads. Very safe, comfortable belays...
Ty running out of battery juice in the middle of t...
Jean Redle climbing out of the tube to finish up t...
Greg Collum starting out the steep roof on the cru...
Heidi Kloos powering through the continuous 3rd pi...
Ty Hydrusko working on the 4th pitch of the Mantis...